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Chimney of Doom 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim Shimberg 1989
Page Views: 1,635
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Topping out

Note: New route moratorium area. MORE INFO >>>


Few people have bothered with this dirty, wet, mossy, ugly, cobweb infested, chimney. I've done it twice, haha. I like that sort of thing.

Out of respect for the average climber, I only gave it one star; however, if you are in to the kind of climbing described above you will love it.

Chimney up, passing a large chock stone and top out returning to the beautiful world above.


Just left of the 5.8 Crack by the Road, there is a dirty chimney.


Standard rack.

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By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Dec 8, 2008

where are the placements on this?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 9, 2008

there isnt too much pro but that is pretty common for a chimney... basicly you work your pro around the chockstones...
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Apr 6, 2009

Walk off?
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Aug 18, 2013

Is there a tree at the top? or do you come down from the anchors to the right?
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Oct 18, 2015

Use a directional at the top for your second, and just put some draws on the anchor to the right and lower off. Pretty fun, bring some long draws, big nuts, and cams up to 3".
By Russ Keane
Jul 22, 2017

Very easy climb, more like a 5.6. Protects surprisingly well, too. You'll plug three or four pieces and then it's over. Use the Bolt and Run anchor.

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