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Chillax 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Christian Burrell and Tristan Higbee
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,104
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Apr 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Description 

The crux comes right at the start. Look for a really neat white crimp under the second bolt and head out left. The corner looks nice but it is actually a bit crumbly.

Location 

On the nice slab, third line from the left, between Dude, It's Classic! and Stolen Thunder.

Protection 

All bolts. We included a sucker bolt for your first clip since the rock in the corner is a bit loose, but cleaning up fast.


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By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The hardest climb on this part of the wall, for sure. The first bit of climbing is kinda crumbly, but it should clean up with more ascents. I'll head back up there sometime soon and scrub off more of the loose stuff. I think it's 5.10a, but maybe that's just because I was concentrating extra hard on not breaking the holds... After the third bolt, it's cruiser easy slab climbing to the top. This climb shares anchors with the route to the right.

EDIT: Another note on the rating: When old man Burrell started climbing, 5.9 was the hardest thing around. So now, if anything is remotely hard it's 5.9 unless I talk him out of it. I still think this is 5.10a.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jun 17, 2008

Very funny...
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Jul 24, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Got on this one again the other day. It's a lot cleaner now than it was before. I quite enjoyed it. And yeah, it could be 5.9. My apologies, Christian... But it's a tricky 5.9. I took some friends up there who can climb slabby 5.9s and they couldn't do the crux on this route. You need arm power.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Nov 17, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Got on this one yet again over the weekend... And I think 5.9 is a bit of a sandbag. The crux is just a couple moves, but I think most 5.9 climbers would be shut down by them.
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Apr 10, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Gonna agree with Tristan on this one. The first few moves are burly and bouldery and harder than anything I've done on the vast majority of 5.9s. That said, fun climb with a tough start that takes some serious gripping, and then, like Higbee says, super easy fun slab climbing to the top.
By Parker Alec Cross
From: Provo, UT
Aug 16, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

My buddy and I did 3 pitches of Cosmic Space Dust Lazers and decided we had time for another quicky, and thought we were posted up at Stolen Thunder and when I went to pull the crux I kept getting shut down. I kept thinking, holy crap, if this is a 5.8, I will eat my grigri. My buddy jumped on it, and also got shut down by the crux on his frist couple tries. I jumped back onto the rope and got the red-point, and my partner did afterward as well, and I was thinking that I was biggest wimp in the universe until I found out which route we were actually on. It certainly made me feel better. I still think it's slightly sandbagged for a 5.9, but the rest of you cats who comment on here have way more experience with ratings than I do.
By joenathan97
Jan 22, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The crux is definitely at the start (probably a 5.10a) start. After the first bolt its just 5.9 climbing to the top.

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