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Chilkoot Pass 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Matt Maddaloni and Paul Cordy (June 2007)
Page Views: 440
Submitted By: Travis McClinchey on May 25, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The start of P1 after you clip the bolt and down c...

Description 

Chilkoot Pass is a two-pitch variation finish to the excellent climb of The Calling. It avoids the final two pitches of the Calling, which are overgrown, uneventful and rarely climbed. This variation keeps the climbing in the sustained 5.11 range. Both pitches are varied, exciting and fun! They are full value after previously climbing to this point!

This variation begins near the end of the fourth (aka. crux) pitch of the Calling. After pulling the crux on this pitch, veer immediately right on a small ledge to a two bolt anchor. This cuts the fourth pitch of the Calling short by ~ 30 feet and avoids the run out moves on the moss minefield slab that The Calling continues up.

P1: Make easy moves and clip a bolt to the right of the anchor. Down climb a few feet on a hanging slab and make a few slab moves as you angle rightward and up. Gain a slabby crack, which leads to an obvious crack on a headwall. Climb the thin-hands crack, which narrows to fingers at the end. Pull into a slabby right-facing corner which angles rightward. Gear anchor. 5.11+

P2: This pitch works its way through the two intimidating small roofs that are obvious from the anchor immediately above. Clip two bolts as you face climb slightly right to the entrance of the first roof and, once established under the roof, hand traverse left to the obvious entrance of the first roof. Take a quick rest with perfect hand jams and prepare to pull yourself, on great jug(s) and finger lock(s), up into a small a small alcove. Pull yourself into the alcove. Clip a bolt to the left of this alcove (to prevent rope drag) and take an optional seated rest as you admire Squamish below. Stiff and tight underlining and/or ring-locks get you through the second roof, which leads to a finger-to-hand crack in a right-facing corner. Ride this to crack to the ledge with one quick roof to battle with en route. Tree anchor. 5.11+

Topo and description by Matt Maddaloni: mattmaddaloni.com/Chilkoot%20P...

Description by Paul Cordy: climblife.blogspot.ca/2007/06/...

Location 

The climb ends to the right of The Calling. Same descent as The Calling. The descent can be tricky if you've never been up there before and/or it is dark. It also has a couple exposed steps. Be careful.

Protection 

Standard Squamish rack. Doubles to 2" with one 3" maybe?


Photos of Chilkoot Pass Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 of Chilkoot Pass.
P1 of Chilkoot Pass.

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By Dru
Apr 20, 2015

A major rockfall on April 19 destroyed the upper pitches of the route above where it diverges from the Calling. The route probably cannot be climbed at all now and the area should be avoided until things stabilize.

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