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Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
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Brazier Food T 
Chili Dog T 
Double Delight T 
Faith Healer T 
Five Tree T 
Foot Massage, The T 
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) T 
Gomez T 
Leap Erickson T 
Leap of Faith T 
Leap Year Flake T 
Look Before You Leap T 
Lurch T 
Mojus (aka Slushie), The T 
Morticia T 
Norm S 
Pat Adams Dihedral T 
Pugsley S 
Snake Oil T 
Tabby Tree T 
Tofutti T 
Toxic Waltz T 
Wednesday's Child T 

Chili Dog 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 579
Submitted By: Nathan Scherneck on Nov 14, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Chili Dog (5.6), Joshua Tree NP

Description 

Begins in a gully behind a tree, up and over a boulder, and in to a wide crack. Get established in the right facing wide crack. Offwidth technique (or fists if you have larger hands) will be a benifit here. Awkward, and in my opinion, harder than the Vogel book's rating.

Location 

Above and right of the finish for Leap Year Flake. Look for the right slanting wide crack.

Protection 

Thin cams and a couple larger (BD #4 or #5) to protect the wide.


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By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Nov 14, 2011

I added this with the rating in the Vogel guide. I'd say it's awkward 5.8. For me at least. The biggest piece I had was one #4. Would have felt better with a #5, maybe two (rather than pro-ing in the crappy deteriorating crack inside the wide).
By Sean Milburn
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 3, 2016

Is route the Dihedral with a crack in the corner above the rap anchors? If so I would agree its not 5.6.
By Larry
From: SoAZ
Mar 15, 2017
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There are multiple confusions here.

Chili Dog starts on the tier above the end of Leap Year Flake. The route described here ends at that tier. It can in fact be top-roped from the double-ring ASCA rappel bolts.

The right-leaning shallow offwidth described here is WAY harder than 5.6. It is two grades harder than 5.8 in my opinion. (Although I did not lead it, because it seems very hard to lead as an offwidth due to the potential for kicking your gear.) It does indeed have lower-quality rock in the thinner sections in the back.

The true Chili Dog is also harder than 5.6, IMHO. 5.7+ I called it. It starts with stemming between the left wall of the corner and the left side of the same flake that Brazier Food climbs on the right.

The four easier upper-tier routes are listed out of order. The correct order from left to right is Tofutti (which goes through the summit block), Double Delight (double cracks ending at bolts), Chili Dog and Brazier Food (which both end at the same bolts as Double Delight).

EDIT: I think I know how to account for the difference in how hard Nathan Scherneck thought the leaning OW was, and how hard I thought it was. A pretty large knob just right of the crack appears to have broken off, judging by the orange/black scar.
By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 16, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Good catch Larry!
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Mar 19, 2017
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Yes, I agree. This route is definitely more difficult than 5.6! If someone told me that the move off the stance near the middle was 5.8 I'd nod my head in agreement. As it is I'll say 7+ in keeping with Larry. Either way it's an enjoyable route and there is easy access to the bolt anchors at the top of Double Delight.

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