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Child's Play 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Drew Spaulding, Justin Day, Sara Bria, August '13
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on Nov 16, 2013

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On lower Child's Play in the typical afternoon sha...

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Description 

Child's Play was the 1st route we decided to bolt on the wall.

Start to the right of the pine tree and up through the roofs directly above the tree. Clipping the 3rd bolt has been the crux for some people.... Originally, we climbed past the 3rd bolt to the right(10a), but now we've worked out the moves directly below and to the left of the 3rd bolt (11.a). Either way is fun! The climbing continues at 5.9 the rest of the way. My young toddler Bodhi got to witness me first lead this pitch, so I named it Child's Play.

Protection 

7 bolts and 2-bolt anchor. I strongly suggest placing a large cam 3"-4" in the horizontal crack before clipping the 1st bolt!


Photos of Child's Play Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux.
At the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Erin Miller pulling the 1st roof (crux) of Child's...
Erin Miller pulling the 1st roof (crux) of Child's...

Comments on Child's Play Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jan 21, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This climb seemed true to its grade, but the third bolt seemed high and thus hard to clip. There is an overhanging section that is 10a due to the large holds. A great route!
By Drew Spaulding
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 27, 2014

That 3rd bolt is tricky to clip, but we figured out 2 ways to do that crux. There is a 5.11a crux if you climb straight up under the bolt and crank the moves to the left instead of the 10a crux to the right. This 3rd bolt protects either variation safely.... Super fun!
By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
Jul 9, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

The crux was fun on this one! All of these routes were really good, I thought.
By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 12, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I give this route a bomb due to the poor placement of the third bolt in particular and the rest of the bolts. I understand spaced bolts, particularly if they are placed on stances on a ground up ascent. This does not appear that way to me (perhaps I am wrong). This appears bolted top down. Many of the bolts are near the "harder" moves,] but just out of reach if you aren't tall. The third bolt is just stupid. Putting it a couple of inches lower would make the climb much more fun.
The climbing isn't particularly hard or special, and certainly not worth the risk of injury you face if you are shorter and cannot clip that third bolt.
By Parker Wrozek
From: Denver, CO
Apr 23, 2016

Apparently you are supposed to go right. Left is super tough with a dyno to a pinch, slide foot, flip to undercling. Being short makes this a tough route. I think it could possibly be bolted better, since most of the good stances were really out of reach for someone who is 5'7".

I guess going right is easier (my girl did this on top rope, and it made sense).

Worth the climb though for sure.
By D. Snyder
From: Golden, CO
Oct 1, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun moves. Poorly bolted. I climbed past several of the bolts and then reached down or laterally at hip height to clip - be solid at the grade.

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