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The Folly
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Childhood's End T 
Good Book, The T 
Left Side of the Folly T 

Childhood's End 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ray Jardine, John Lakey (1976)
Page Views: 136
Submitted By: Bryan G on Sep 29, 2015

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Leaning corner/flake with lots of handjams for the first 80ft, then easier chimney climbing for the remainder of the route. A bit dirty, but steep and fun and "full-value". It can be used as a better alternate start to the Left Side route. Hike up to the wall from pullout 0.4 miles west of Camp 4. The start is probably around half way between the East Chimney of Rixon's and The Good Book.

The base of the crack has a lot of bay trees and stuff around it, but from 10ft uphill to the right you can get up on a foot ledge and traverse over into the crack. Jam past a small chockstone roof, then enter into the pumpy crux section which is thin hands. After a ledge scramble up to a bombay chimney and exit out past more big chockstones to another ledge with trees. Belay from trees. The Reid topo calls this pitch 100', but it's definitely longer. Perhaps you can rap to the ground with one rope if you swing right because the hillside comes up to meet you.

A second pitch leads up the short 5.8 chimney to more ledges where it joins the Left Side route. If rapping the route, bring extra webbing to replace the tat which is up there.

Protection 

Pro to 3", mostly 1-2"


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