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Child Prodigy 
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Child Prodigy 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,320
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Dec 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Rachel on Child Prodigy - Arlin Goss photo


Both Firestarter and Child Prodigy can be found on the road-facing side of the Moat Boulder. Firestarter climbs the right side of the face on big holds and Child Prodigy starts as per Firestarter and breaks left.

Start on big holds that mark the start of Firestarter. Rather than going to a flake with your left hand, grab the crimp right below it and head left into an ill-defined inside corner. The crimps continue, some facing the wrong direction, until the lip where a hero-jug awaits. Topout up and right.



Photos of Child Prodigy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Following crimps up Child Prodigy.
Following crimps up Child Prodigy.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alan Baryudin styling the first crux
Alan Baryudin styling the first crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim on the very extended part of the route. Tim is...
Tim on the very extended part of the route. Tim is...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim on the terrible right hand side-pull/crimp/sma...
Tim on the terrible right hand side-pull/crimp/sma...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just before the big move.
Just before the big move.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mr. Armstrong crushin'.
Mr. Armstrong crushin'.
Rock Climbing Photo: Charlie on the upper section.
Charlie on the upper section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth on Child Prodigy. Photo by Caroline Raymond
Seth on Child Prodigy. Photo by Caroline Raymond

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By Lanky
From: Tired
Oct 16, 2008

I really like this problem. Didn't find the rumored hero jug, though...

Also, it looks like there's a more intuitive start using low sidepul in the inside corner. Would make more sense than starting to the right.
By Jesse Coburn
From: Manchester, NH
Dec 2, 2008

where does this route end? up the arete seems super tough, but i havent felt the holds. out right to the jug?
By Lanky
From: Tired
Dec 3, 2008

Pretty sure you top out to the right (above Firestarter).
By RyanCahill
Apr 8, 2012

I agree with the more intuitive and direct start. Seems very obvious to me, where as starting Firestarter and moving up and left seems a bit contrived.
Overall great problem with hard finish!
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Apr 9, 2012

Yea the direct start seems to be the way to go. A bit reachy for the tyrannosaur folk ( like me ) Can't wait to get back there.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jun 20, 2012
rating: V6+ 7A

Julian's suggested direct start is by far the more logical starting place. Otherwise, this route is quite contrived. It doesn't make any difference in the difficulty either, since the crux (IMO) is the last couple of moves at the top.

The top out is fairly strange as well, as it's not entirely clear what is 'acceptable' and what's not. Too bad because it does climb quite well with great long-ish moves on cool holds.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Nov 23, 2013
rating: V6+ 7A

I Finally sent this rig today! This route has taken me several years of trying to actually send. By far the longest I have worked on any particular boulder problem. It is an awesome route would be 4 stars if it didn't have to cut right into Firestarter.
By Emerson Takahashi
From: Casper, WY
Oct 18, 2015
rating: V5 6C

Tricky beta made this feel fairly easy(compared to nearby v6's).

  • ***beta alert****

went left into undercling, tricky foot swap to gain far left foot on good edge, and I was able to bring my foot high into a scoop feature(almost drop knee) to make the last move an easy, but precise, deadpoint.

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