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Chief of Scouts 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Hermann
Season: south facing
Page Views: 363
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Dec 2, 2012

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This route features an OK start to a really fun couple of moves over a bulge at 3/4 height and a easier but still engaging topout. I busted an air Jordan slam dunk-style dyno off a big ledge to a massive letterbox slot in a horizontal crack, though ample footholds in the roof mean shorties have a way out too. Very enjoyable climbing and quite a memorable crux move (at least the way I did it).

A tall person (or one with an awesome ape index) would probably have a laughably easy time with this crux.

Historical reference- Buffalo Bill Cody was chief of scouts for the 3rd calvary in the late 1860s. So there ya go.


Basically in the middle of the Cowboy Wall. Begins just left of Cigar Store Indian, initially trending left away from the smooth featureless reddish stripe. It tackles the biggest part of the bulge above.


7 bolts, 2-bolt clip & lower sport anchor.

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By Mees
From: Iowa
Dec 3, 2012

FA Mark Hermann
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Dec 3, 2012

Are you sure about that? I asked Mike Snyder, who told me Rick Aune did the FA, originally on gear nonetheless, and retroed it after other sport routes went in on the wall.
By Mees
From: Iowa
Dec 3, 2012

100% certain, talked to Rick for confirmation, not that it really matters but thought as long as you are adding info here, might as well be accurate. Mark really did a great job putting up routes in the early days of development at the BB. Not sure what he is up to these days, hope he is well and thank him for his excellent contribution bitd.
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Dec 26, 2012

Thanks for the info Mees. I like things to be accurate when I add them too, which is why I originally emailed Mike Snyder about the FA info since the guidebook lacks it. I do think it matters & thanks for contributing the correct info.

I very much appreciate the contributions of all the of the crew who established these routes and thank them for their efforts! I had a great time climbing in the canyon once things cooled off this past fall. It fills a nice niche for cold-weather sport climbing in a gorgeous setting.
By Mr. Southfork
Oct 9, 2015

FA Todd Cozzens, Scott Carson 1988. This route follows the arete above the massive block.
By Mees
From: Iowa
Oct 14, 2015

OK maybe Rick and I got it wrong but I thought there was another route to the right of chief of scouts that you are talking about Todd. Don't recall Chief of Scouts being an arete climb. Believe you are talking about the right route referred to in the description not the left
By Mike Snyder
From: Cody, WY
Oct 28, 2015

Based on the Aune guide the arete above the block is called The Wild West Show. As I remember it the crux is moving to one of those hamburger-like churt pieces while wrestling the arete. This I believe is the route Todd and Scott put up.

Chief of Scouts starts just left of Cigar Store Indian and trends left initially for some tough face climbing, though the crux is going through the bulge at the end. FA Mark Herman I believe.
By Mees
From: Iowa
Oct 29, 2015

yeah that sounds correct Mike, just couldn't remember the name. The arete move to the churt I still remember. When did cigar store Indian go in?
By Mike Snyder
From: Cody, WY
Dec 17, 2015

Alaric Miller added Cigar Store Indian and Space Wrangler in 1994 or 5. They are between the arete climb Wild West Show and Chief of Scouts. In fact most of the second tier routes on the Cowboy Wall got added around that time over the course of two days, including Blood Drive (retro bolt), Shootin Blanks, Madcap Cowboy and Best Shot in the West

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