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Chickies Direct 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Submitted By: Ross Purnell on Sep 2, 2017

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Description 

P1. Start in the corner under a massive overhang at the base of the hill, on the Valley Trail coming down from Witch's Brew.
P1 Climb the corner to a small tree and traverse left a few feet to the center of a black, vertical or slightly overhanging face. Climb the face (crux) to the grassy ledges above and in another 50-60 feet you'll find a wonderful belay ledge with one solid bolt and a great crack for trad gear. P2 Climb the overhang to the right of the belay, then move left and climb the left of the arete to the summit. If you stay on the side of the arete facing the river, the moves are hard 5.8, very steep. The are many opportunities to escape to the left on p2 of this climb making it substantially easier. But then, you aren't on Chickies Direct.

Location 

This is the first climb you find walking downhill away from the Main Wall.

Protection 

There is one bolt at the belly ledge as of August 2017.


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By Ross Purnell
From: Palmyra
Sep 2, 2017

August 2017 We trundled many dangerous rocks that were 20 feet up at the top of the corner where you traverse on Chickies Direct. Also removed 3-4 trees and shrubs that have essentially blocked the route for many years.

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