Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Trail Valley
|
Chickies Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Chickies Traverse TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V1 5 |
|
|
Frigid Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
|
|
Hugh's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
|
|
Milt's Roof T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Smoothies T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
Steppin’ Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Wrinkles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Yo-Yo T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,307 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Ross Purnell on Sep 2, 2017 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
Multi-Pitch Trad Climbing at Chickies
P1. 100 feet. To find the start of the climb, walk north and downhill from Witches Brew. The climb starts in a corner at the base of the hill, right where the path levels off. June 13, 2020 we arranged a log near the base of the climb to act as a bench to putting shoes on/off. Climb the wide open corner aiming for a small tree. Climb the steep black face just 5 feet left of the tree (crux 5.8) and you'll find a bolted belay station about 30 feet directly above that small overhanging tree. Pro is great on the hard parts, it's a bit of an unprotected 5.0 scramble to get to the bolts.
P2. 90 feet. Take a long romp up and slightly left through 5.1 easy grassy ledges until you find a new belay station on the roomy ledge with two very fine bolts and rappel chains. this is the only pitch that is R rated, but it's super easy. Thank you to South Central PA Climbers and the Access Fund! We need more people to climb this pitch and beat the weeds and grass down, so please take a lap! The new belay station makes it safer and easier.
P3. 70 feet. Climb the overhangs directly above the belay. It's easier than it looks. Move left and climb the left edge of the arete. The moves are hard 5.8, very steep. The are many opportunities to escape to the tree gully farther left making it substantially easier. You can also escape to the right by climbing up to the rappel chains at the top of the cliff. But then, you aren't on Chickies Direct. If you climb directly to the chains, you've missed the route.
Make the final moves of Chickies Direct below the summit on the left side of the face near the arete where you'll find deep horizontal cracks for gear. This pitch is one of the best at Chickies, it's clean, steep and climbs the highest point of the rock.
You can use a 60m rope to descend to the anchors on top of p1. Please knot the ropes and make sure you're in the middle of the rope, because a 60m just barely makes it. From there you can rap to the ground. Do not use the anchors on top of p2 to rappel unless you really want to rappel three times. Even with a 70m rope you cannot make it to the ground from the top of p2 so don't try.
9 Comments