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Chickenhead Holiday T 
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On the Waterfront T 
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Waterfront Cave T 

Chickenhead Holiday 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Ted Wilson, Robert Stout May 1961
Page Views: 3,311
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 30, 2004

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A historic climb. Great cool down from the hike in...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


At the west end of The Waterfront, just at the chockstone at the base of the cliffs, is this gully/crack, that angles right. The crux is getting off the ground. Good protection, and easy climbing makes for a great trad lead for beginners. At the 1 bolt anchor, I aimed for the chains to the west, going up and traversing over on the undercling crack, slinging chickenheads. Not a bad line to give you an easy exit.


1 OLD bolt for the anchor, so bring some backup, and the crack protects well with a standard rack.

Photos of Chickenhead Holiday Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P girl on holiday...a Chickenhead Holiday!
P girl on holiday...a Chickenhead Holiday!
Rock Climbing Photo: You may stumble across this slingable feature near...
BETA PHOTO: You may stumble across this slingable feature near...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Chickenhead Holiday
BETA PHOTO: Start of Chickenhead Holiday

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 2, 2017
By Lee Gitlin
Sep 30, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The first 8 feet are the most interesting sequence. This deep crack gobbles up as much big gear as you care to place. Hexes and #2-4 cams work well. I was a little leary of the old, single rap bolt at the belay station. Break out the hemp rope and say your prayers, bailing off of that thing!
By Anonymous Coward
May 28, 2005

I have a feeling that this OLD bolt might soon get replaced. Now ....not having ever climbed this route, if this is in fact the belay / rappel and the route does not continue up and or have gear placements to incorporate into the belay, what would be the consensus on replacing the OLD bolt and then PLACING a second belay bolt.???? How would people feel about that???
By Nathan Fisher
May 29, 2005

This bolt in and of itself is in need of replacement. Now, with that said, 20-30 feet left are the anchors for the slabbier routes. These can be used for any descent, with a mild traverse, and therefore I don't see a need for "anchors" to be added, just a one-bolt replacement.
By kBobby Hanson
From: Spokane, WA
May 29, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Please do not replace this bolt. It really isn't necessary to begin with. There is pro available, and if you climb up to the ledges, there are several places where you can build a natural anchor. The crack on the second pitch would be great if it were steep. At the end of the second pitch, you can traverse left and into Plumbline Gully. I think there are other options above, but I've never done them.
Sep 1, 2006

2 Bolts and Chains have been added as of 8/31/2006
By kBobby Hanson
From: Spokane, WA
Sep 1, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

By Luke Douglas
Aug 1, 2009

That OLD bolt had significant history behind it and it is a shame that it was removed for the sake of a convenience anchor.
Aug 1, 2009

I'm sure we're all very aware of who to thank, errr, tell to fuck off.
By bsmoot
Oct 26, 2009

As a beginner, I climbed this route back in 1976. There weren't ANY bolts on the entire climb. Sad to see an unnecessary bolt station added to a very historic route.

This was the first officially recorded route in Little Cottonwood.

F.A. Ted Wilson and Robert Stout May 1961
By Luke Douglas
Oct 26, 2009

+1 to yank.
By grk10vq
Oct 26, 2009

if any route should keep its original state i'd say it be this one.

can i get an amen.
By samg Gileadi
Oct 26, 2009

By dbrown
Oct 28, 2009

I climbed this route around 1982 and there was a bolt with a ring anchor around it. It looked old even back then.
There is another route or two to the right of On The Waterfront that has the same anchors.(At least it did a year ago) They aren't in any of the old guides and one climbed a squeeze chimney.
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
Jun 2, 2017

Bummer about the anchor station. wish it could be removed entirely as it's not that convenient of a route to get to in the first place. Wish we could treat this like Schoolroom and not have a super easy bail option after the first pitch. Recommend the second pitch to add a small flavor of adventure to the first pitch. Tons of different ways to climb it, all of which are low angle slab interspersed with groovy crack. If you're struggling to find a top anchor go left into the Plumbline gully and you can either anchor off a tree or one of the corner cracks.

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