REI Community
Dip Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chickenhead Better Than No Head T 
God Save the Queen T 
Green Eggs T 
Grinch, The T 
Griptospuridiam T 
Ham T 
Logic and Proportion T 
Lorax Tree, The T 
One Fist, Two Fist, Red Fist, Blue Fist T 
Orange Crush T 
Over the Hedge T 
Sam I Am T 
Seuss is Dead T 
Star Bellied Sneeches T 
Sylvester McMonkey McBean (aka Snitches) T 
Theodor Seuss Geisel T 
Whoville T 

Chickenhead Better Than No Head 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Bob Hayes, Dave Veldhaus 1992
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 102
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Oct 19, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Partial closure due to historical and archaeological sites. MORE INFO >>>


This one is exciting and for all the wrong reasons. Probably doesn't see many ascents and it shows. This route is very serious having lots of fragile rock to negotiate, even during long runouts. It is advisable to have your belayer hide under the overhang at the start and wear a helmet.

Start in a wide broken crack. Move up the crack into another broken crack, placing gear when the rock is good. Move hard right to the base of a water groove looking feature. Move up the groove getting gear in horizontals along the way trending towards the prominent chickenhead. Sling the chicken head with a 4' sling and get on top of it. Above this is the crux and the R section. Make delicate moves up the dirty, slick, mossy face to get to the plates way above. Once at the plates, find some gear and either move up or hard right to the anchors on Griptospuridiam.

On our ascent, we did not see a slung tree, but traversed right to the bolts on Gripto. Note that if you do the traverse, there are many loose plates up high, but are some good chickenheads to sling down low. Slinging the chickenheads down low will prevent the rope from knocking one of the plates loose.


This route is on the far left side of the wall. From the approach trail, walk left past the rock house, look for the overhanging finger crack of Griptospuridiam and move to the left side of that buttress. There is an obvious large chickenhead above a groove about midway up the face.


.3-3 Camalot size, long slings, and at least one 4' sling. Use bolts on Griptospuridiam or look for slings on tree above.

Comments on Chickenhead Better Than No Head Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About