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Chicken Rodeo 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 170
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 30, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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GRK on chicken rodeo

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is below Schoolroom rappel. It climbs the face right at the obvious chicken-head that rests at the lip of a small roof. Scramble up to the base of the roof, face climb, and use an undercling to get within reach of the chickenhead, and then grab it and mantel it. FUN!! Lieback the crack until you can jam it and then smear the finish.

Protection 

2 chains (Schollroom Rap) make for an easy top-rope after climbing one of the other climbs, or you can lead it. Bring a 2" cam for the undercling, a sling and a lasso arm for the chicken head, and some medium to small nuts for the initial crack. Higher up in the crack, one would need small cams or creativity with nuts. 1 large cma for the top could be useful.


Photos of Chicken Rodeo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chicken Rodeo climbs the face to the big chickenhe...
BETA PHOTO: Chicken Rodeo climbs the face to the big chickenhe...

Comments on Chicken Rodeo Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Nov 17, 2008

Did this route 3 or 4 years ago. It was my hardest trad lead at the time. I was scared out of my mind. I thought it was definitely R rated, but I was probably just a pansy. I remember getting 3 or 4 pieces in the flaring flake thing (made me mentally happy) before committing to the moves above. The chickenhead part is pretty fun, though. Good times.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 16, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I'm not sure where a 2" cam would fit in the cling. Seems like .3, .4 or .5 placements are there and solid.
The chickenhead mantel is full value LCC goodness. Blowing it would suck. A lot.
Another mantel lurks above and might have you questioning why you're leading this one...
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 1, 2010

This climb sucks. Crappy rock and mediocre gear...all for one good move. Don't waste your time.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
May 20, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Not that great. The single leg squat to get up the chickenhead highlighted my lack of quads.

I give the sling over the chickenhead a 60% chance of staying on. Was able to sneak in a #0.4 before the traverse to the chickenhead.

2nd crux is just as heady but not nearly as difficult.

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