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Chicken Mechanics 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Brian Sillasen and Todd Gordon, May 1986
Page Views: 693
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jul 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: "Chicken Mechanics". Photo by Blitzo.


This route has a fun crux overhang with a clean finger crack above.


to the right of the center of the formation


standard rack

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By Russ Walling
May 9, 2010

Starts in an alcove with a shoddy looking mini roof about 10 feet up. Awkward moves over this rooflet lead to quasi ok rock and a left leaning hand crack. Somewhere in there you will pass a Nolina (thanks Todd) that is determined to poke you in the neck. Follow the poor to fair rock up and left on easy ground. Now you have a dilemma. Continue up the loose and grainy crack to the real summit, jump from here and cut your losses, or go up the 3 bolt face Pacific Ave Dorm, which is pretty good. No bolts on top. Anchor takes 3" pro. Down climb and scramble off the summit over the back and then to climbers right. One star is generous.
By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 9, 2010

I agree with Russ;....when we did the first ascent of this pile, I was not all that impressed myself. I has a few good qualities; is rock climbing, and it is fun....that's about all I have to say about this one...It had a big all spiny nolina growing in it too.....and the roof;...well;..the roof is all of 10" that a roof?....
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
May 10, 2010

Roof? yeah I'd still call that a roof. Getting to the roof was somewhat complicated particularly when the leader pros to the left. Some down climbing, quiet prayers and extreme skill-set can put you on course for a few pretty fun moves.

The rock quality was so-so but overall I pseudo liked the route and would do it again. That said, I rapped from the top and my partner did the walk off. Where exactly is the anchor fairy these days?

No complaints about the approach or aspect, both were perfect for late afternoons in the summer...thanks Todd.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Jan 31, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Lets just say this is Josh 5.9. The roof definitely surprised me, along with the group of climbers that did it right before me (Brad Young and David Harden from the Sonora area and their friend Bill).

I would go back and climb this. It was fun

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