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(f) Cocaine Gully
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Chicken McNuggets 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Heins, Pete Keane 3/91
Page Views: 3,335
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (111)
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Rapping Chicken McNuggets as the sun sets

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is a fun route with cool exposure and consistently fun climbing. It starts with a rather steep boulder problem (a stick clip makes it seem much less difficult) and then goes straight up a slightly slabby face with lots of nubbins. If you like Smith Rock nubbin climbing, you will love this route.

This is the farthest right route on the right wall in the Cocaine Gully.


9 bolts and a bolted anchor. A stick clip is handy for protecting the bouldery bottom section before gaining the main face.

Photos of Chicken McNuggets Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: past the Chicken McNuggets crux, cruising the deli...
past the Chicken McNuggets crux, cruising the deli...
Rock Climbing Photo: Vomit Launch on the left, Chicken McNuggets on the...
BETA PHOTO: Vomit Launch on the left, Chicken McNuggets on the...
Rock Climbing Photo: High up on the nugs
High up on the nugs

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By Joel Sprenger
From: Terrebonne, OR
Nov 28, 2007

Good climb. Hard reachy move at the start leads to a fun slab and an even better upper section leading to the anchors.
By grizz Burton
May 12, 2008

Very fun climb. I didn't encounter a single suspect nubbin. Everything felt very solid. The initial moves to the first bolt are challenging with a seriously bad fall potential but the clipping holds are good.
By David Wade
Dec 1, 2008

First bolt isn't all that hard, although I agree the fall would be v. ugly. The second bolt, sure seemed desperate to me! Watts says left hand in the crack, but I was on the face. One bomber hold at the bolt, and you're golden.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Sep 15, 2010

The starting moves past the first bolt felt considerably harder than 10b.... at least to me.

Great nubbin fondling though!

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