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Chicken Little 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: SA, Abishek Chandrashakur, Jay Ladin
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 88
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Delusional scenarios of the sky falling are even less probable than climbers plummeting from this fun warm-up climb. This route begins below a few small roofs located just left of a prominent, right-facing corner capped by a roof. Work past the small roofs to a seam, then step right at its top to beautiful stone leading to a steep, final right-facing weakness, then to the anchors. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)

Variation: The prominent, right-facing corner capped by the roof mentioned above has also been lead, and joins the line at half-height (5.8, pro to 3”).


Upper left end of the wall.


9 bolts.

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By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Wow, Joe, it's hard to believe we were climbing the same route! Glad you had such a good experience on it. Maybe I'll have to take another look sometime.

I think part of my animosity stems from an expectation that a 5.8 sport route would be a relative cruise, but this route was insecure and awkward the whole way, especially up high. Felt more like 5.10 to me and caught me by surprise-I thought seriously about grabbing a draw up there!
By greg k
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Charles, I think Joe got this one right, really an overlooked/undiscovered/intentionally ignored/unintentionally unobserved classic with heads up climbing at the start and finish. You're right about the rating though, this ain't no grandma's climb (oops, sorry Emily)

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