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Chicken Wall
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Chicken Lips 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, 1998
Page Views: 1,920
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 21, 2001

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Beautiful sunset lead up Chicken Lips. Photo by...

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  • Description 

    This is located on 'The Chicken Wall' of the 'Clock Tower'. Locate this route by walking uphill (left) to a face just right of a dirty corner groove system with 4 bolts on it. (1 more over lip). Climb the steep slab with small crimpers, keeping the feet out of the corner to the left. It is a great line although very short. It is a little overgraded in the guide, it is perhaps 11a/b at most.

    Protection 

    5 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.


    Photos of Chicken Lips Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dede cruising Chicken Lips.
    Dede cruising Chicken Lips.

    Comments on Chicken Lips Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Meredith DB
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 23, 2007

    On the downside, this route has some rather sharp holds. On the upside, it has some fun balancy moves.
    By Deaun Schovajsa
    Jun 16, 2008
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    This would be a good route if it was a little longer. Still, better than some of the other routes on this section of rock.
    By Ben Cassedy
    From: Denver, CO
    Jun 27, 2010
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    I'm with Dr. Evil on this one. Sharp! But overall fun with a crux around bolts 2 - 4.

    Also, I made the crux moves before (attempting to) clip bolt 3, and got to the first good hold up and left of the third bolt. I was clipping from roughly waist height when I slipped and took a totally clean fall. (And I outweighed by belayer by about 70 lbs.) I think if you fell trying to clip the third bolt from the lower, worse holds, you might not take such a clean fall.
    By Maggie M
    From: Longmont, CO
    Apr 8, 2012

    A good climb with a short crux. It's relatively easy getting the clips on bolts 1 and 2, so if you are into hangdogging the crux (not that I'd ever do such a thing), then you are totally safe. Yep, sharp holds.
    By Luke Childers
    Sep 15, 2012
    rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Almost had flash. No send but one hang. Thought it quite good and I look forward to a single push next I'm there. Yes, short but good moment is just good movement. Worth the effort.
    By Branty
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 8, 2016

    Short, fun climb on thin (and sharp) holds. Nice and balancy -- keep an eye on your feet! Hard to know if the side of the arete on the left is on, though -- makes some parts significantly easier.

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