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Chicken Heart 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Galen Kirkwood, Bob Van Belle
Page Views: 1,619
Submitted By: Marc Kajut on Jan 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Chicken Heart

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


Belay from a sloping ledge. Climb past two bolts on slippery features and a shallow, small cam placement to a ledge. Continue up a right facing dihedral to a rap station.


Standard rack plus two (2) bolt protection. Two bolt anchor. Rap bolts.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Chicken Heart (5.10a)
Chicken Heart (5.10a)

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By Robert Buswold
From: Northglenn, CO
Jul 29, 2010

I am so glad I'm out of SD. Mission Gorge is horrible water-polished granite. Absolutely terrible climbing there. El Cajon mountain is probably the best sport climbing in that area, but a hell of an approach. With all that said, this route isn't too crappy, yet WAY short!
By Kyle Wills
From: Chicago, IL
Nov 18, 2010

Hey! Dont hate. And I agree this route is somewhat satisfying.
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Oct 20, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun climb that probably doesn't get the respect it deserves.

I could never get a cam to fit properly in the "shallow, cam placement." Instead, I find a #3 Metolius nut to work quite well. Be careful above that placement though. Several years back I was leading this and couldn't pull through the mantel and repeatedly kept falling on my nut without resetting it. Finally, on about the fourth attempt, the nut popped and I missed the ground by about 12 inches. After the fall, my belayer didn't even need to lower me. I just stretched my legs out and was standing on the ground. Needless to say, I scared the crap out of my poor belayer. Learned some important lessons that day and glad to say I am all the wiser now.
By Louis92064
From: Poway, CA
Nov 5, 2013

A .2 bd x4 cam works well in the shallow crack above the second bold.
By sdrockstar81
From: el cajon, CA
May 12, 2014

where is this climb?
By wing thing
Jun 17, 2014

A fun but slippery start on some edges and crimps over a bulge to finish on an easier crack dihedral. This climb and chicken fart are located on the main wall left of the Trauma and Lunch Rock area.
By David Garancosky
From: State College, PA
Dec 13, 2014

Only had time to do one route here and this was it. SUPER slick until you get into the dihedral crack. Started left and below the belay shelf and made it a bit more PG+ for sure. Used a #4 BD nut in shallow crack but wouldn't want to fall on it. Only had one cam that would fit in the dihedral so just walked it to the chains. Fun but had a bit of a swearing fit on the crazy slick beginning. I would do it again in a heartbeat. Starting low and left stretches it into about a 45 foot route.

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