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Chicken Fingers 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: A couple dudes with a drill
Page Views: 215
Submitted By: knowbuddy Buddy on Aug 12, 2011

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Thad gettin' rad

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A thin start into an awkward mantle with not so great pro. Traverse to obvious tips/finger crack. Follow crack up and around a corner, through a little choss and finish off with beautiful fingers.

Location 

To the right of short loin 100 yards

Protection 

lots of tips through .5 camalots, one #3.5 camalot


Photos of Chicken Fingers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chicken Fingers
Chicken Fingers
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the choss
Above the choss
Rock Climbing Photo: Chicken Fingers
Chicken Fingers

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By Jason S.
From: Durango, Co
Aug 12, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

The "choss" isn't much more than a body length of a softer flake that is firmly wedged into the crack, nothing loose. The offset tips splitter start is maybe v3ish and a bit spicy as it begins about 15 feet off the deck on blocks, with a black alien or .1 camalot jr. for pro. Ballnuts are also handy. With the exception of the start, this may be a bit soft @ 12-, with nothing harder than 11 after the first 20 feet. Fun route!
By Kelsey Sheely
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 2, 2013

It is confirmed that the pro in the bottom section is a bit sketch. Black alien popped out as Philly, the belayer, was lowering himself down off the boulder -- he almost took Ritchie with him as he fell. Luckily no one got hurt. Ritchie, knowing he couldn't fall safely, proceeded to send the route. Good work buddy.

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