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Chicken Delight 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Alber, 1998
Page Views: 377
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 21, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (102)
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BETA PHOTO: Chicken Delight, the leftmost route on Chicken Wal...

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  • Description 

    This route is the leftmost route on the 'Chicken Wall' at 'The Clock Tower'. 7 bolts follow a face with pockets and crimpers to the anchors. The route can be eased by using the arete (a little dirty). I would place this route at the same grade as the route to the right, Rubber Chicken, somewhere around 5.10 c/d. Not quite as fluid as Rubber Chicken.

    Protection 

    7 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.


    Photos of Chicken Delight Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chicken Delight from halfway up.
    Chicken Delight from halfway up.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Dillon starting up Chicken Delight.
    Peter Dillon starting up Chicken Delight.

    Comments on Chicken Delight Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 14, 2017
    By ClimbandMine
    Oct 15, 2002

    Not the worst route on the rock, but other than the crux reach/undercling, its kind of like doing the same move over and over....
    By keith story
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 2, 2009
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    The moves felt redundant and pumpy. Delight wasn't terrible, but did not live up to its name. Worth it for a workout.
    By Crag Dweller
    From: New York, NY
    Sep 7, 2009
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    I think this route is more fun if you stay to the right of the bolt line.
    By keith story
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 11, 2010
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Came back to lead this again and tried it on the right side. Crag Dweller is right, it is more fun on the right side for sure.
    By Ben Cassedy
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 6, 2010
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    The one to the right is comparable in difficulty but much better quality.
    By Paul Donald Andrews
    From: Nederland, Co.
    Sep 4, 2010
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Good route. I think the crux move was a little tougher than Rubber Chicken. Interesting holds, nice rock. I moved slightly left of the bolts to step up onto the ledge above the crux. Seems like if I was to the right I would have been on the other route.
    By Hiro Kurotsuchi
    From: Colorado
    May 1, 2012

    Climbing up the face didn't seem 5.10a/b, I used a bunch of the flake on the left. Very fun that way, it will feel difficult if you are strong on the laybacks. My partner said that his legs were worn out from hanging on the flake and sliding up the wall.
    By Hiro Kurotsuchi
    From: Colorado
    Jun 2, 2012

    Did it again today. New nemesis. Didn't use the left flake holds at all, tried going directly up the bolt line - definitely not 10a/b, at least c. Some holds are now polished and more difficult to use. Going to the right does work, but takes you off the bolt line.

    Really wondering what the intended route was! I'll keep coming back until my skills allow me to climb straight up the bolt line - totally doable, just not at my skill level yet. Not that I think this is a particularly good route overall. Really interested to try the 10c to the right, it looks fun.
    By BarcaRules
    Dec 31, 2012

    Good stuff.
    By Nathaniel Dray
    Apr 19, 2014
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    Fun but short. If it were twice as long with half as many bolts, I would give it three stars.
    By L Kap
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 14, 2017

    Bold moves, lots of standing up on slabby feet while pulling on small high underclings or sidepulls. Feels very stout on lead. Many of the best feet up the face are not visible from above...you have to kind of toe around for the pockets in the horizontal grooves. Going left to the lieback is more secure but also feels like cheating. Several reachy moves for me at 5'7".

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