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> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> Five Fingers Area
Chicken Chickenhead
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2.2 from 10
votes
Routes in Five Fingers Area
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Bitterfingers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Chicken Chickenhead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fat Man's Misery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Five Fingers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hornet's Rest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scumbag Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tenderloin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Waltz, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Larry Evans and Rich Ream |
| Page Views: | 1,444 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Brough on Apr 10, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Start up a fist crack between a slab on your right and a steep face on your left. Several large chickenheads provide jugs for those with poor crack climbing technique. Stem through a long trough chimney to what appears to be a belay underneath a right-facing dihedral. The crux is getting into the dihedral. I'm pretty sure that the chickenhead at the crux is the reason for the route's name.
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