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Chicken Chickenhead T 
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Waltz, The T 

Chicken Chickenhead 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Larry Evans and Rich Ream
Page Views: 199
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Apr 11, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Chicken Chickenhead climbs the big corner just bel...

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Start up a fist crack between a slab on your right and a steep face on your left. Several large chickenheads provide jugs for those with poor crack climbing technique. Stem through a long trough chimney to what appears to be a belay underneath a right-facing dihedral. The crux is getting into the dihedral. I'm pretty sure that the chickenhead at the crux is the reason for the route's name.


Just left of the Waltz, Chicken Chickenhead climbs the trough chimney underneath the tree that grows out of the rock beneath the Callitwhatyouplease rappel. Use the Callitwhatyouplease rappel to get down.


Medium to large camming devices or big hexes for the more passive personalities. There are some slings below the crux in case you don't want to top out.

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