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Chicken Bone T,S,TR 
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Chicken Bone 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 4,197
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Feb 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (73)
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Just after the 4th bolt on "chicken bone"...


In the true spirit of Pilot Mountain, this once spicy trad lead has been neutered into a 10-bolt sport climb.

Nice little ledges and crimps lead you up the face, past a small seam and a flake to the ledge. Pull up onto the face above the ledge and head for the top. Consistent 5.7, with great moves and good exposure for Pilot.


Starts about 10 feet right of Vegomatic, at a small overhang.


Sport- 10 bolts and anchors at the top.

Trad- Bring a standard rack. The opening moves are protected, but then there isn't much available until you reach the ledge system about 40-50 feet up. Falling here isn't really an option. 5.7 X.

Photos of Chicken Bone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top
Near the top
Rock Climbing Photo: On Chicken Bone
BETA PHOTO: On Chicken Bone
Rock Climbing Photo: Chicken Bone, looking up from the base.
BETA PHOTO: Chicken Bone, looking up from the base.

Comments on Chicken Bone Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eduardo Ramirez
From: Columbia, SC
Sep 7, 2011

By Bill Webster
Feb 28, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Now a 10 bolt sport route. Probably the best route at Pilot.
By dave Hause
From: carrboro, nc
Mar 12, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

^ Agreed. A great lead climb with the new bolts added.
By Matt Thomas
Mar 15, 2014

Bring 12 draws and a 60 meter rope. Amazing climb.
By George Best
Apr 6, 2014

There is a loose flake that serves as a rather critical hold on the lower section. Would gluing it for stability be legal for NC ethics standards?
By Vince Buffalini
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Mar 25, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

^ I used this flake, my 6'3" partner didn't have to. Pull down not out.
By Dylan B.
May 18, 2015

TR'ed this yesterday with a 25 lb. pack on to top out at the end of the day; made it pretty strenuous. Lots of fun, though.
By Benandstuff
From: Winston-Salem, NC
May 31, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A great climb, uniquely long for pilot. I gave a 5.8 because the crux (right below the overhang) is too tricky to really consider 5.7 material.

If you are top-roping, use the Jomeokee trail to save on stairs and time.
By Adam Fleming
From: Moab, Utah
Sep 12, 2016

Climbing this route and belaying from the top is a great alternative to walking up the hill at the end of the day.

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