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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Barrel of Monkeys S 
Bloke On The Side T 
Bridget the Midget T 
Byway T 
Chick on the Side T 
Conversions T,TR 
Court Jester T 
Crazy Stairs T 
Curving Dihedral T 
Dandi-Line T,TR 
Dead Letter Department T 
Drug Abuse T 
Erickson's Finish T 
False Prophet T 
Fever, The T 
Going Postal T 
Good Ship Venus T 
Handcracker Direct T 
Hanging Chad T 
Heat Wave T 
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 
Human Factor, The T 
Hyperspace Roundup T,S 
Ignominity T 
Ignore Me T 
Iron Horse T 
Knife, The T 
Lightning Bolt Crack T 
Lost in the Netherlands T 
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 
Mail Ridge, The T 
Mesca-Line T 
Muscle and Hate T 
Pluto T 
Pony Express T 
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 
Practice Climb 101 T 
Practice Wall T 
Prison Sex T 
Pygmy Pony T 
Quick Silver T 
Quicksand T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Reckoning T,S 
Rhombohedral T 
Rope to Ruin T 
Seemingly Innocent T 
Side Wall, The T 
Sister Morphine T,TR 
Sooberb T 
Sooberb Lite T 
Sundial T 
Sword Of Damocles T 
Thin Ice T,TR 
Think Quickly T 
Unbroken Chain T 
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 
Warp Drive Overload S 
Who's Holding T 
Wind Tunnel T 
Zeros and Ones T 

Chick on the Side 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Erickson and Steve Wunsch, '76
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Pin [details]
Page Views: 1,833
Submitted By: Matt Robertson on Oct 26, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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Dave resting at the rail.

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  • Description 

    About a hundred feet up the hill from the start of Long John Wall, the West Ridge Trail passes by a dark, left-leaning dihedral partially obscured by a pine tree. Look for a pin about 15 feet up and a heavily chalked, horizontal rail higher on the right wall. Chick on the Side takes this steep dihedral via liebacks and stems. Pro is good when you need it, and unlike many harder Eldo corners you can both protect and climb without facing the dilemma of choice. Unfortunately the fun ends all too soon as the dihedral spits you out onto a ledge after only a few interesting moves.

    A fun diversion while it lasts, but not as satisfying as the real thing.


    Small Aliens or nuts for the business, big nuts and/or medium cams for the belay. There is one pin in the dihedral. This is a short pitch with scant but sufficient opportunities for pro.

    Photos of Chick on the Side Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dave gears up for the finish line.
    Dave gears up for the finish line.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dave just after the crux start.
    Dave just after the crux start.

    Comments on Chick on the Side Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 24, 2016
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 26, 2001

    I did this climb a few years ago and remember it as being awkward and hard 5.10 (but short). One star is about right.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Nov 2, 2001
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    The first few moves are crimpy, sharp, and powerful, as well as awkward. The taller you are the better. I thought that the route was fun, but quite hard at it's grade. Once the opening sequence is done, the rest of the route is much easier, so a long or dangerous fall seems unlikely.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Dec 16, 2002

    I also thought this was hard. Power trumps height. I'm 6' 3". I had the reach but not the power to hold myself in while reaching. I had to lunge for the bucket after trying various possibilities. There is plenty of pro above, but it's strenuous hanging out. You can stem out right with your hip in the corner, but it's stressful. You can escape right around the arete at the big bucket (as I did) for a rest, and you can escape again higher up (as I did).
    By The Nutter
    May 16, 2004

    Probably easier if you're shorter like me. Great drop-knee stem stances for contemplating life and pro.
    By Shane Zentner
    From: Colorado
    Feb 20, 2005

    Bouldery start, as I fell onto my belayer before grabbing the jug. I suppose the taller the better. Fun dihedral!
    By XOG
    Apr 17, 2006

    I tried to figure out a way to statically reach the jug below the pin right at the start and couldn't figure out a way to do it other than to dyno. Apart from the battle with the tree I liked it better to climb out the dihedral the whole way instead of escaping right. Very deceptive as it certainly did not look to me like the opening sequence would be the crux. I really enjoyed this route. If linked with Handcracker would it be the longest continuous climb on the W. Ridge?
    By jack roberts
    Oct 19, 2007

    I managed to do the opening moves to the first jug statically, but it was awkward and I had to stem out left and under the overlap. I agree with the sharp and crimpy hold business, but I think 10b is a fair grade. This isn't Boulder Canyon. The tree needs to be trimmed at the top! Protection is good and the moves are interesting.
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Jan 2, 2008
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    I just want to log a counter point to the earier comment.
    I agree that the tree is a bit intrusive, but it's important to remember (especially as more and more people are climbing here) that we are all just visitors in the canyon and have a responsibility to its preservation. And even if we wanted to, we can't just create 'improvements' in a state park on a whim. My point: Just climb around it. We climbers create enough unintentional impact as it is without "trimming" trees because they poke our little behinds once or twice.
    Great route, by the way! Having double Aliens (green-red) made it very civilized.
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Oct 23, 2011
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Had another fling with this one today, then continued with Variation to Mail Ridge (Going Postal?) and finished on the exquisite Handcracker Direct. Levin calls it the Mail Ridge Tower Link-up or something. Really fun!
    By mountainhick
    From: Black Hawk, CO
    Jun 15, 2015
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Moves entering the corner are cranky and awkward. Take some extra fingers for your left hand for backup!
    By D. Snyder
    From: Golden, CO
    Nov 24, 2016
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    I really enjoyed this route, but I wouldn't want it to be the first pitch of the day. The top was pumpier than I recall from years ago when I last did it. The start was of course still pretty burly, but it's a foot position, static reach problem.

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