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The Kitchen
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Chicago Overhang TR 
Chicago's West Side T,TR 
Double Jam T,TR 
Left Corner T,TR 
Mark's Corner T,TR 
Mr Numbers S,TR 
Panic City S 
Right Corner T,TR 

Chicago Overhang 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,053
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 15, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Zero rope drag on Chicago Overhang - Peter Duckett


Overhanging, bouldery start to an overhanging, broken pumpfest.

The first part of the route is essentially a slippery, slightly overhanging boulder problem to a tiny ledge. It can be made a little easier by staying to the left. The second section is an overhanging bulge with jugs to help out. After the bulge the rest is easy.

It is described in the Ruckman guide as "the classic Rock Canyon sandbag."

It requires a fair amount of extension from the bolts to get the anchor point over the edge where a top rope won't rub excessively, so bring some 1 inch webbing or static rope.


Two bolt anchor at the top of the outcrop; a long sling or some static rope is needed to get the anchor point over the edge.


Chicago Overhang is immediately east of the The Kitchen, just inside the gate. It is a north-facing, very irregular outcrop with two prominent bulges.

There is a two-bolt hanger-and-chain anchor at the top of the formation that can be used for top roping either the Chicago Overhang or Chicago's West Side. To reach the anchor requires a bit of work: Either easy Class 5 climbing - the short way, just to the south of the face itself - or Class 4 scrambling - the longer way, south up the slot between The Kitchen and Chicago's West Side and then back north on the top of the Chicago formation.

Photos of Chicago Overhang Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A look at the chains on top of the Chicago formati...
BETA PHOTO: A look at the chains on top of the Chicago formati...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chicago Overhang on Feb 4, 2006. View from the gat...
BETA PHOTO: Chicago Overhang on Feb 4, 2006. View from the gat...

Comments on Chicago Overhang Add Comment
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By Mark Gillis
Jan 3, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This overhang is not 5.8. The first part, if done straight on is either V1 or V2 and then the second overhang is probably a strenuous 5.8. Dangerous lead, I would toprope it before leading it. I have been doing this overhang since 1976 and it is not 5.8.
By veritus
From: redlands, ca
Jun 30, 2006

I'm with mark. I feel its either 5.11a with the boulder start or 5.8 if you start off to the left.

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