Chica Bonita Wall Rock Climbing
This crag is a relatively new addition to climbing at The Red. The wall is host to a mixture of trad and sport routes. Chica Bonita is a good wall for more moderate climbing, as the routes tend to be vertical slabs rather than overhanging pumpers. Ratings range from 5.8 - 5.11. Some of the routes have not seen a lot of traffic and can be slightly dirty, but the rock is of good quality and should clean up with time.
From the parking for "Bob Marley", etc...hike back down the road you came in on. After about one hundred feet, two roads will head left up the hill. Take the road on the right. Continue up this road to the top of the hill. Here you will see an old oil pump near a small cliff. Take a trail right and down around the cliff to the wall. The approach should take about 10 minutes.
Weather station 1.2 miles from here
30 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Chica Bonita Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Chica Bonita Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Chica Bonita Wall:
Good Gravy 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Featured Route For Chica Bonita Wall
Cheaper Than a Movie 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Kentucky
: Red River Gorge
: ... : Chica Bonita Wall
The route ascends a long, right-facing dihedral towards the center of the wall. Climb up through a section of broken cracks to gain a cleaner, tight-hands crack in a corner. Follow the corner as it continues up and starts to arch to the right. When the corner ends, make a few moves on the slabby face to the two bolt anchor just below the top of the cliff. * The guidebook says that a single 60m rope is enough to lower off this route. It will be really close! It might be wise to use a 70m j...[more] Browse More Classics in Kentucky
Sep 6, 2015
Word of warning for those planning to use the approach info in the red river gorge south book to find this wall. We were one of three groups in an hour who showed up to Chica Bonita after having gotten terribly lost trying to follow the book's approach beta. I plan to write to the editors so that they can update the beta, but until then, the approach info on this page is pretty solid. This page says you'll see two roads on your left going uphill: the one on the left is very overgrown and looks miserable; once you start hiking up the road on the right you'll see a sign confirming that you're headed to Chica Bonita. Unfortunately this sign is currently hidden by plant life and easy to miss.