REI Community
Rappel Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baradur T 
Bender-Axen T 
Black Magic Woman T 
Black Quacker T 
Charadras T 
Chiboni T 
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 
Corner, The T 
Helm's Deep T 
Lude T 
Main Gate T 
Not So Easy Arch T 
Other Way, The T 
Quick Death T 
Rotissima Bueno T 
Standard Route T 
Storm Crow T 
Voodoo Child S 
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike McEwen, Dave Baker, 1971
Page Views: 4,335
Submitted By: Anonymous Climber on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Keith Hoek leads Chiboni

Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>


Chiboni is a wonderfully challenging pitch of slab climbing at the base of Rappel Rock. You can use this as a starting pitch for any of the lines that head for the tree ledge where the Standard Route/Black Quacker end their first pitches. Start a bit left of the toe of the buttress, move up and around the right end of a low roof and then up the undulating face above. As I said above, there are some good stretches between bolts and you'll have to keep your head about you. A Rap Rock classic!!

Apparently a Chiboni is a sort of Russian bagpipe also called a Gudastviri. Not sure if that's where the name came from, just what a web search turned up. The gudastviri is a droneless, double-chantered, horn-belled bagpipe played in Georgia. The term comes from the words guda (bag) and stviri (whistling). In some regions, the instrument is called the chiboni, stviri, or tulumi.

Maybe one of the older Tucson climbers could confirm or deny this is where the name came from?


Chiboni is bolted (and there used to be a fixed pin), but hardly a sport route. Some good stretches of slab paddling are required between clips.

Comments on Chiboni Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 11, 2015
By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
May 24, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The distance between bolts on this route makes for some scary runouts.
By jbak
Feb 13, 2006

The combination of Chiboni, Quick Death and Voodoo Child is a Tucson classic.
By jbak
Feb 21, 2006

Hey greg...I did VC back when it was rusty buttonheads !

Assuming the bolts are still where they were, I would classify VC as "mentally absorbing" rather than scary. Where it's 5.11a, the bolt is nearby. As you get above the bolt, the climbing gets easier at exactly the rate necessary to keep panic at bay as the bolt recedes. After doing the 5.6 moves to gain the ledge I looked down and saw nothing but rope, the bolt was out of sight. Perfect. The day I did the Chiboni/QD/VC combo, Steiger was there making drawings for his guidebook. The Summit Hut guide said VC was 5.10 but I had heard it was harder. I yelled down to John "Hey is that 5.11 ?". He said "Yes". I said "cool, my first 5.11 flash". He said "Mine too !".
By Jimbo
Mar 8, 2006

Jbak, great anecdote.
Isn't it amazing how the farther you get above the gear the more likly it becomes your going to onsite the pitch.
I miss the old days sometimes. It's too easy to go out and clip bolts now. No more pumping yourself up for the "headpoint".
Times change, I've gone to the dark side, like so many others.
Every now and then it's good to jump on a route like Voodoo Child or Straight Arrow. Just you remind yourself of the way things were, "back in the day".
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Sep 6, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Sweet pitch.. Beautiful rock too..
By James DeRoussel
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 30, 2008

One of the best slab climbs in Arizona.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 30, 2008

James if you like slabs the place to go is Out of Towners Dome in the East Stronghold. Not only the best but probably also the hardest. The other good ones on Rap are Voodoo Child and Black Magic Woman
By mrbiscoop
Aug 20, 2011

Lead this back in '93 or so with my old friend Charlie King.
By adrian korosec
From: tucson,az
Aug 15, 2012

Looking for a little beta here.

Comming in from the left does one use the underside of the roof as a layback, or the crack where the roof meets the slab? I started using the little crack but thought it was a bit easier standing up and unclinging the underside of the roof, however that requires blind groping.

Climbing directly straight up to the right side of the roof looks much harder than traversing in from upper left.

Was there a pin under the roof in the past? Small TCUs are a chore to get in. After the roof things become manageable, but up to, and around the roof is tough to climb and protect. Great pitch!
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 15, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Up until a few years ago there was a piton at the roof prior to the first bolt. I've climbed it both with and without the piton and believe that despite the gear being adequate it ups the commitment level.

I tend to start slightly to the left, place gear in the obvious weakness in the roof, and then move to the right where the slab is less blank. Never seen anyone else do it so there may be a better way.

Hope this helps.
By Andrew Megas-Russell
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 11, 2015

I just climbed this for the first time and had a blast! Classic slab climbing. A strong head required, but nothing a locker on your quick draw can't ease. I climbed it in a warm spell in February and the temps were in the 60's and just perfect for high friction. I would not get on this on a slimy, hot day. I agree with Hendrixson's route finding beta. And yeah, the old SMC's are a little loose.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About