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YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 1100', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
Page Views: 477
Submitted By: Cedric B on May 13, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Topo of Chibania, taken from Spanish blog Photo cr...


A dihedral 7 pitch climb on the Pilier du Couchant on generally excellent limestone.

Pitch 1 involves some 5.2ish climbing with no bolts.

Pitch 2 is the first real technical pitch that offers decent moves on 5.8 terrain.

Pitch 3 involves some basic dihedral moves on 5.10.

Pitch 4 is the best pitch with an awesome sustained crux up the dihedral that people seem to rate anywhere from 5.10b (6a) to 5.11a (6b+). Its difficulty depends mostly on your ability to stem and use a variety of techniques from fist jams to pockets. It is a bit run-out but takes small pro.

Pitch 5 also involves two or three exciting moves, following the dihedral.

Pitches 6-7: The last 2 pitches are of mediocre quality; easy climbing on occasionally sharp limestone slab.

The descent is an easy 30-45 min walk-off to the right, with cairns marking the trail back to the road.

Unfortunately I took few good photos; there is some good beta on the Internet although mostly in Spanish or French.
Catalan blog post on Chibania


Pilier du Couchant, left-trending dihedral, about a 5 minute approach from the main Gorges road.


The climb is a bit sparsely bolted and bringing a light rack was useful. All anchors are bolted; bolts appear relatively new.

Photos of Chibania Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying Armen from the top of the 2nd pitch.
Belaying Armen from the top of the 2nd pitch.

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