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West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock TR 
Atom Smasher S 
Baby Sitter T 
Break on Through T 
Break On Through to Chianti T 
Chianti T 
Clear-a-Sill T 
Cruisin' for Burgers T 
Ein Kluck T,TR 
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 
Gibbet, The T 
Incarnation S 
Jimmy G T 
Long John Wall T 
Next to Nearly T 
Rictus T 
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 
Shock Of the New T,TR 
Strawberry Shortcut T 
Sunshine Wall T,TR 
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 
Unlead, The T,TR 
Unsaid, The T 
Uranus T 
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 
Washington Irving T 
White Rabbit T 


YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 9,157
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (188)
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BETA PHOTO: Eds. Note, this rappel may be a rope stretcher wi...

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  • Description 

    Just right of Break on Through's large dihedral is a steep crack system that leads to a large roof. This is actually a better pitch than Break on Through's 1st pitch but it doesn't look that great from the base.

    Take the thin crack straight up to roof, turn roof around left side and cruise to tree. 2nd pitch moves up thru rotten band and takes the right crack/corner system (left is Break on Through) up the headwall. Very steep crux but great pro and jams take you to the large ledge with 2 bolts at the far right. You can also downclimb to a dirt ledge, then head south about 10 feet and find a cable/rap station, with one more rap below that which will take you the base of The Unsaid.


    Small cams (Aliens, TCUs) to medium....stoppers work nice too. Tree anchor for 1st pitch (same as Break on Through) and 2 bolt anchor for 2nd (rappel anchor).

    Photos of Chianti Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch two of Chianti.
    Pitch two of Chianti.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch!
    Second pitch!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike G starting the first pitch of Chianti.
    Mike G starting the first pitch of Chianti.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bruno Hache cranking up to the hand crack on the s...
    Bruno Hache cranking up to the hand crack on the s...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Janet Conner stemming the crux slot on the first p...
    Janet Conner stemming the crux slot on the first p...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Last Crux Move up the steep crack on Chianti
    Last Crux Move up the steep crack on Chianti
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 - Mmmm...mmmm...good.
    Pitch 2 - Mmmm...mmmm...good.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 smiles...
    Pitch 1 smiles...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Mottinger making the start of Pitch 2 more dif...
    Ben Mottinger making the start of Pitch 2 more dif...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce on the first pitch.
    Bruce on the first pitch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike G short roped on Chianti. PS, make sure your ...
    Mike G short roped on Chianti. PS, make sure your ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rick, past the crux of pitch 1.
    Rick, past the crux of pitch 1.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rick, starting the first pitch of Chianti.
    Rick, starting the first pitch of Chianti.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Toward the top of the first pitch
    Toward the top of the first pitch

    Comments on Chianti Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 28, 2017
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 8, 2001

    Super fun route. The 8+ rating seems right on. Both pitches are great, though the second is very short. If you use long runners to reduce drag, I think you could do it in one pitch with a 60 meter rope.

    Josh Hemann
    By Anonymous Coward
    Feb 5, 2002

    This is a great climb! The first move is the hardest part of the climb, but the entire thing eats up pro. The second pitch might look difficult but it too eats up pro (up to a #2 camalot) and has huge holds. Climbable all year-round.
    By Holly Barnard
    Apr 15, 2002

    Excellent route. Follwed it on 4/13/02. We did it as one pitch with a 60m rope and had about 10ft to spare. My partner set up a gear anchor left of the bolts on top, so that probably allowed for the little extra rope we had. If you wanted to ensure that you had enough rope you could scrabble up together and belay from the ledge directly below where the business really starts instead of from the ground (I belayed from the ground).
    By Michael Komarnitsky
    Founding Father
    From: Seattle, WA
    May 8, 2002

    Do the second pitch! I looks gnarly from the ground, and even a little bit from the belay. However, the route opens up for you and you can get gear in everywhere. One gear beta idea: about a #4-5 stopper goes in the seam on the right end of the flake above the small tree. Basically you're still standing on easy ground, but you stretch up and place it. This is your pro until you get the bomber finger lock to place a .75 up in the crack.
    By tobias Nitschke
    From: CO
    Jul 10, 2002

    Nice route-- a cruiser with positive holds throughout. I'm curious what the hell the bolted climb is below the 2-bolt rap anchor. It's positioned directly above Washington Irving, about 7 bolts. Seems like solid 5.12...(?) I got pumped quick on top rope. It follows a nice handcrack up to the left past the first bolt, briefly onto a ledge, then out right again onto the face. There are some decent side-pull holds for both hands, but purchase for the feets peters out... Anybody know it? thanks.
    By Ernie Port
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Sep 16, 2002

    Tobias,I believe your asking about Atom Smasher .12d on the face above W/I. Used those anchors you described recently to rap off P2 of Chianti. They're placed very close to the edge, and I was concerned about slipping & shocking the bolts as I gingerly stepped out onto the face. Cool rap though.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Oct 22, 2002
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    You can do this as a single pitch route with a 70M, and probably with a 60M if you start the belay from up on the ledge. I did it with a party of 3 with a 70M and the 3rd on a 60M from the ledge this weekend. Watch for rope drag though- I arranged my rope carefully and was OK, my second back-clipped a second rope for the 3rd and did not run it right- she claimed to have "40 pounds of drag."

    I like the climb, but I think I've done many better climbs near this grade. Gambit, Long John, Ruper, Yellow Spur, etc...

    5.8+ seems right.
    By James Balasalle
    Apr 15, 2003
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I agree. A great route. Not too long and any easy rap descent. Could be done at the end of the day, or as a "warm-up" for other climbs in the area. I thought the first few moves of the first pitch were thought-provoking but the whole pitch was pretty straightforward. The second pitch looks pretty henious from the belay, but isn't so bad once you get up to it. The crux is pretty short and well protected... I placed a nut at the bottom and a cam (#1 friend maybe??) in the great finger crack. You could get a bigger piece near the top, but I couldn't find a good rest, so I just topped out.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 23, 2004

    I saw the two tape Xs for proposed bolts at the top of Pitch 1. Has this been decided and someone needs to clean up the tape?

    1. Seems like wrong place for belaying a 2nd.2. *May* turn the first pitch into *another* top rope in this area.3. Plenty of good pro just above the little tree, which made for a great belay anchor.4. If the goal is to save the tree from people using it to rap...then they need their head is 90% dead already.5. If one really needs to bail, use the other dying tree on Break On least that one has slings.

    Seems like a bad placement that would change the climb greatly.

    What's the Link again to the bolting Committee?

    By Anonymous Coward
    May 23, 2004

    The tree is a lost cause, bolt anchor should be in the correct position if anywhere. This climb could be made much safer. Like the moves off the ledge, etc. But then it wouldn't be this climb? I don't see a need to rap from that position but we topped out. Probably would be a bad toprope, with all the drag on the slab, but it would be done.
    By The Nutter
    May 23, 2004

    I call total bullshit on adding bolts to the top of P1. "Saving a life" shouldn't even enter into this discussion. About a yr. or so ago, I was doing P1 of BoT as a warm-down pitch, thinking the tree was still slung. It wasn't and I realized why. I sucked it-up and left 2 bomber nuts off to the left on BoT. The moral of the story is that if you're in danger, you can leave gear and if you're not, you can finish the climb.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 24, 2004

    Looks like it is time to clean up the tape on Chianti:

    April 22, 1997 MeetingHeld at Boulder Rock Club Baseline, 7pm.

    #65 Route: new anchors above Chianti 5.8+ 1st pitch, West RidgeHardware: 2 bolts to save treeApplicant: ACEFHRC: not recommended Reason: natural anchors present, most do not use tree
    By Matt Chan
    From: Boulder
    Aug 23, 2004
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I too am glad to see that the FHRC removed the application to bolt an anchor on P1. Save the tree by belaying ten feet higher at a much larger tree with a nice ledge. Not sure if you can rap to the ground from this tree, but the second pitch is worth doing anyway. Rap from the top of P2 off the Atom Smasher anchors down to the Washington Irving anchors.
    By Jason Shatek
    Oct 18, 2004
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Wow, what a climb. I am a new 5.8 leader and this is easily one of the best climbs I have ever done! Larry and I did this climb last saturday. The cruxes take some thought, but all the moves are there, and the difficulty is not sustained. This very vertical route offers excellent protection and hand holds along with a variety of terrain. The route was an Alien sucker, it sucked the Aliens right off my rack and into bomber placements. I felt the crux was getting onto the repel bolts after the second pitch. I don't know what it was, but I was really creeped out trying to go over the edge and weight the bolted anchors. The anchors are in good shape, I just couldn't weight the anchors until I stepped over the edge. Seriously though, one of the best climbs I have ever done, I highly recommend it!
    By Danny Inman
    From: Arvada
    Sep 11, 2006

    A worthy route.
    By lauren di scipio
    Dec 25, 2006

    Super fun climb. This is the route where me and Jimmy M saw Garrett and let him "play through" because he wasn't dressed warm enough for the morning...ask Boulos.
    By Mark Cushman
    From: Cumming, GA
    Mar 12, 2008

    Along with others here, I found the bottom to be the crux of the entire route. P2 was short and fun, and I could get gear above my head the whole way. Great route!
    By Matt Richardson
    From: Longmont, CO
    Apr 28, 2008
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Did this last weekend as a warmup, and what an excellent route! I think you will find the crux depends on your strength - if you excel at more gymnastic movement, then the beginning of the second pitch which requires some crack technique will be it; if you cruise crack, then the bottom of the first pitch will probably make you think. The first pitch is nice and long - about 35 m to the tree shared with Break on Through. The second pitch is no longer than 20 m.

    There is an alternate descent if you find the anchors off of Atom Smasher to be a little spooky - you can down climb off the back of the ridge to a nice cleared area and then walk about 20' south to a horn just a ways uphill. Although difficult to see, the horn is slung with webbing and a steel cable replete with rap rings. From here you have a quick rap to the top of Washington Irving.

    If you are using the anchors above Atom Smasher, I would suggest bringing some extra cord - the webbing was looking a bit threadbare with at least one of the cords showing the core.
    By Ben Bronson
    May 17, 2010

    Tons of fun. Great for the grade.
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Jan 22, 2012

    Due to traffic on the final pitch, we ended up finishing Chianti via the final pitch of Rocks to Climb Routes To. It's the next crack to the right. Fun pitch (.10b or so) with a spicy start but good climbing...until the day that giant flake at the crux comes flying off. Seems imminent.
    By Karissa Sampson
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 6, 2015

    If the rappel at the top makes you nervous about stepping off the edge, take a look to the west/climber's left if you have your back to the edge, and you'll find a great step down that will put you into position to weight your rappel and swing just a bit to the right to be under the anchors. P.S. my BD nut tool jumped ship off the second pitch of Break On Through and went sailing down Chianti. Happy booty day to whomever finds it!
    By Gregger Man
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Aug 7, 2015

    Improved rap anchor:
    Rock Climbing Photo: New anchor for Atom Smasher.
    New anchor for Atom Smasher.
    By D. Snyder
    From: Golden, CO
    Oct 2, 2016

    This goes easily in 1 pitch with judicious runner use. We rapped with a 70 from the Atom Smasher anchor, rapped off the ends with about 10' of downclimbing from where The Unsaid gets steep - not hard but exposed. Best to use doubles, an 80, or stop at the Washington Irving anchor on the descent.
    By mhagny
    Aug 28, 2017

    It felt plenty hard getting the gear in on the low crux on P1. I downclimbed back to the ledge after placing it (pumped), but the move itself wasn't that bad once I had the gear.

    A fun route with multiple interesting spots.

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