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Chevalier de Balibari 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: MJM & RAMM, 5/2013
Page Views: 106
Submitted By: MJM on Aug 16, 2013

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Description 

Like its neighbors Full Metal Jacket & Jack Torrance this route is still dirty and dusty in spots.

Start on beautiful, gray rock with a very large hold to smaller holds to the high first bolt. Start trending right with cruxy climbing near C2 to a mini-rail out right with some hidden incuts to clip the high C3 for the bigger holds. Clip C4 and stay right for the reachy, big, flat edges. At C5 move up to the next clip. Near C5, go up then head left to clip C6 (there is rope drag here, so a double draw or a long sling on C6 maybe helpful ) to a flat rest spot. Above the flat rest spot clip C7 and climb some dirty rock straight up past a close C8 with tricky moves and a bit of a run to the ring anchors.

Location 

Kubrick's left, hike along the wall up stream/uphill past Lady Lyndon. At the top of the inclinded trail, Chevalier de Balibari is the first route. The trail is thin here please belay from the first spot on the left.

Protection 

8 clips to anchors.


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By davedad
From: Carbondale, CO
Jul 8, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Very friendly bolting! Delicate and hard to read down low. Really fun and juggy up high. Loooong stretch to the anchors. Worthwhile - it will get much better with a bit of traffic.

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