REI Community
The Northeastern Crags
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beanstalk Crack, The T 
Big Red Shoes T 
Bigfoot was Here T 
Br'er Rabbit T 
Chess With Justin T 
Encour du Bottom feeder T 
Farewell Ronald McDonald T 
Happy Camper T 
Jolly Green Giant, The T 
Mountain Minor T 
Pick a Card T 
Shapeshifter T 
Sojourn of Arjuna T 
Squeeze Box T 
Steady Yeti T 
Thin Slice T 
Wiessner Corner T 
Yeti Beats T 

Chess With Justin 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Max Dismukes and Ben Lariviere 5/28/2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 260
Submitted By: Max Dismukes on May 31, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Chess With Justin


Start on the (presently dirty) left-rising ramp and step left, or alternatively crank a tricky and powerful boulder problem to get established in the crack. Climb up with a good finger jam or two, a hand jam, and an undercling to stand up in the wide pod. Get a #5 BD nut up and left in a little slot in the crack and then launch into the crux. Technical footwork and sidepull crimps on the edge of the crack, which is much too thin for even baby fingers to fit in, will get you to a decent fingertip jam. More footwork will bring you to better finger jams and another wide pod in the crack. The technical crux is over at this point. Pumpy and interesting moves on positive holds will get you standing on a little ledge, where you can fully recover if you need it, before finishing up the last couple moves to another ledge with a two bolt anchor (thanks to Mark Sprague for popping that in for us).

I really enjoyed this route, and hope people get out there and climb on it! Could use a little love still, especially at the start. The grade is a suggestion, please share your opinion...might be easier when it gets cleaned up a bit more.

I'd like to note that this route was put up in honor of our friend Justin Graham, who died tragically last year. Justin was a strong, bold, and humble climber, a generous friend, and a brilliant inventor and engineer. He could also beat just about anyone in chess. He is missed by everyone who was lucky enough to know him.


This route ascends the right of two thin, left-angling cracks, which you can find by following the cliff right and uphill from Farewell Ronald McDonald. You will come to this section of cliff before the chimney that marks the start of Brer Rabbit.


A single rack of nuts and cams to #3 C4 will more than sew it up. Small offset nuts help to protect the crux but are not totally necessary. The small #4 and #5 BD nuts are crucial, micro cams won't fit.

Comments on Chess With Justin Add Comment
Show which comments
By benlariv
May 31, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great route. Feels hard when trying to onsight but is a bit easier when you figure out the beta. Worth climbing.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About