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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Doug Ranck, 2006
Page Views: 633
Submitted By: aSteel on Nov 27, 2013

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This natural line starts in a nice, 5.5 or 5.6 chimney. Work your way past a chockstone and stand on top. Head up a crack to the right, straight to a two bolt anchor.

This line was bolted for a few years, but the bolts were chopped as of 4/22/14.


This is halfway down the Wallstreet Gully on the right.


Single rack, with some finger-sized cams for the very top. The bolts were chopped as of 4/22/14.

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By Lee Jenkins
From: Tucson, Arizona
Dec 4, 2013

This route is "Cherry, 5.9 and was put up by Doug Ranck in ~2006.
By Doug Ranck
Jul 3, 2014

This route was put up by John O'Brien and Doug Ranck in 2009. It was one of John's first projects at bolting and a route for new sport leaders to cut their teeth on. If it wasn't in the guidebook, it wouldn't have been found and subsequently vandalized. YOU have deprived new leaders of a route they could have practiced on. The BLM and Forest Service need to diligently prosecute vandals of public property.
Thanks Lee, keep up the great work.
Climb hard and have fun.

P.S. If I removed all of the bolts on routes I soloed in the Buenie area, you have nothing left below 10c and a few harder climbs. Please respect the work someone else has put into route establishment. If you don't like it, don't climb it or bring it down to your level.
By aSteel
Jul 4, 2014

I agree that the climbing world would benefit from increased development of well-protected sport climbs from 5.5 - 5.8. I think this would help beginners, as well as less advanced climbers, to enjoy climbing. However, if you are saying that we should bolt well protected natural lines in order to provide more options for those who are not placing gear, we are on opposite sides of this issue.

This "vandalism" is a common solution to rectifying the abuses of thoughtless bolters and re-enriches a climb and area that has been tarnished. While I am hesitant to endorse the vigilante chopping that solved my concern, I believe it was an unsurprising reaction to the actions of the bolting party, as well as their failure over five years not to rectify the damage they did. What is left is a natural line with good anchors on top that will be a great climb for beginning trad climbers and some unfortunate holes in the rock.

By ignoring not only the local norm, but the core guidelines hammered out over the past century - don't bolt cracks that take good pro - we risk endangering access as well as our ability to continue to put up thoughtful, respectful lines. The BLM has asked climbers to police this area themselves. If they do not, the climbing community risks the freedom it currently enjoys. If climbs established without regard to ethic continue to go up, we should expect the Royal Gorge BLM office to hand down guidelines and restrictions to limit the damage, the same way other land agencies are doing across the country.

In the future, perhaps these issues should be raised in a community forum and decided on. I admit my initial description of the route was passive aggressive, I was not thinking. I have revised it to be more straightforward. Additionally, I have been passive aggressive about the bolted crack just left of Cherry, established by Doug Ranck again I have been told. I thank Doug for cleaning this obvious crack line of moss and guano and ask him to remove those bolts and naturalize those bolt holes as well. If he will not, I support their removal regardless. We have beautiful, natural crack lines to climb with gear, and that experience should be protected for all, even if most of us can't climb it without bolts.
By Doug Ranck
Jul 8, 2014

Please, by all means remove the offensive bolts, and you must stay with trad rules and remove the anchors also. If the anchors are still there after all of the bolts are gone, I will ensure you that they will be gone soon. Walk off.
Climb hard and have fun....

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