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Chemical Warfare T 
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Chemical Warfare 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Drew Bedford, George Zamelis and Skunk - March 1983
Page Views: 1,926
Submitted By: M. Morley on May 13, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Room To Shroom Rock

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Description 

Refer to Room To Shroom description for approach information. Start 50' uphill (left) of 'Shroom. Gain finger/hand crack by bouldering up 8' (poor landing - ankle breaker). Move right along finger crack and finish as for Room To Shroom. Descend as for 'Shroom.

Protection 

Pro to 2_ (.75 size helpful). A small stopper helps to protect both leader and follower on the final 20' traverse.


Photos of Chemical Warfare Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the easy part of Chemical Warfare.
Starting the easy part of Chemical Warfare.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the finish crux.  Trying to fiddle in a last pi...
At the finish crux. Trying to fiddle in a last pi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Morley traversing Chemical Warfare. Photograp...
Mike Morley traversing Chemical Warfare. Photograp...

Comments on Chemical Warfare Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 5, 2004
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I found this route to be on par with the harder 8's or easier 9's at J-tree. this was really not any harder than Room To Shroom itself, which I thought was easy for a 9. The boulder move at the bottom is a single step up on positive hands and a good side-step for feet to gain jugs that go the rest of the way. Pro is cams .5"-3.5" (wide stuff just before turning the corner). Good route- but not a 5.10 at all.
By gimmesome roy
From: alpine, ca
Nov 24, 2006

if its really windy out as when i did this route, a good variation is to go up room to shroom and traverse into chemical warfare, fun for the leader and the second...
By Tyler Logan
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Mar 15, 2008

Not .10b if you approach the crack via the face holds, but maybe if you start at the far left where it's tight jams and steeper? It does seem kind of pointless to do this however.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Oct 13, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Considering that the majority of the line follows the big arching crack, starting at the beginning of the crack seems obvious enough to me. Perhaps not necessary, but I'd hardly call it pointless; at least, not anymore than the art of climbing itself.

That said, by Jtree standards (i.e. the first 10 feet don't count towards the grade) it's about a soft 5.9 anyway.
By Izzy Nawfal
From: Redondo Beach, California
Dec 20, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I started from the beginning of the crack. I'd say 5.10B sounds about right. I do agree if you start with the face climb it'll go at 5.9. It seems not many people do the crack start. It had a fair amount of choss when I jumped on it today and kept sliding out of the crack! However, I found the initial moves to be the best part of the climb.

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