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4. Lower Patina Wall
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Cheetos Direct T 

Cheetos Direct 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ed Pinskey and Isaiah Newton
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 166
Submitted By: edward pinskey on Feb 5, 2017

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Ed getting stemmy

Description 

This steep dynamic route route is quite tenacious for its size, but protects well and falls are clean. Start under the overhang and climb up into the awkward corner. Clip the bolt and make a big move to a good hold. Protect the crux move in the horizontal with a big stopper. Make powerful moves over blocky bulges to a finger sized crack. This is where this route comes into the crux "Assbone Arete" a 5.9 done by John Bain and John Sykes. Follow crack to a two bolt anchor.

Story Time- After a day or working the crux and getting further every try, we decided to come back another day. The next day rested i got the route first try. After a few tries and no luck, Isaiah ate a bag of cheetos and the cheese dust was just what he needed to get him up the route.

Location 

This is the furthest right route on the wall. follow the trail right and the wall makes a bend. You cant miss this steep alcove.

Protection 

Stoppers, quick draw, cams from fingers to bd #1 maybe a bigger cam and a long draw if you want to protect before the bolt.


Photos of Cheetos Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: .
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Rock Climbing Photo: If your short you place the stopper mid crux from ...
If your short you place the stopper mid crux from ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tucker about to get into the business.
Tucker about to get into the business.

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