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Private Pizza Wall
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Cheek Full of Redman 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Tea and Peter Eernissie
Page Views: 2,806
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Nov 19, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Butt shot looking up the Cheek.


Climb the nice thin hands crack through bulges to a two bolt anchor.


This is the nice thin hands/wide finger crack to the right of Unknown Offwidth. Anchors are visible from below.


2-3 sets of cams from #.5 camalot size to #1 camalot size. Maybe 1 or 2 hand size cams??

Photos of Cheek Full of Redman Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Have yourself some loose leaf Redman for this rout...
Have yourself some loose leaf Redman for this rout...

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By Tea
Dec 5, 2007

Hey Ben!
This short route was dubbed "Cheek Full of Redman 5.10", done about the same time you did "Teeter Totter", by myselfand Peter Eernissie. We climbed Teeter Totter the same weekend on your recommendation if I remember right. Fresh drill dust and cool moves on Tetter Totter. Anyway...another shorty on the wall, but fun.
By Ben Folsom
Dec 5, 2007

Thanks for the info! I will update my topo on here shortly. Do you know what the route is just left of Teeter Totter going up the groove/crack to a bolt anchor? Brian in SLC and I are both curious about this.
Good name on this route, as I like leafy tobacco!
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Dec 6, 2007

Rumer has that route name is "Rat Hole", Ben. Confirming that. How hard do you think it was? I'm thinkin' 5.9ish? Seemed harder than Private Pizza to me (by a grade) but, softer rock near the start may have got my juices flowing a tad more. Cheers!
By Ben Folsom
Dec 6, 2007

Your right Brian, I will update the topo here shortly.
By Adam Johnson
From: Park City, UT
Jun 30, 2010

By Light .50
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Great Route, I would suggest 3-4 1.5 friends, 3 # 2’s, and 1 # 2.5 or # 3 in the off-width section.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Feb 5, 2012

nothing bigger than a #1 camalot is needed.
By Nicholas Spiropulos
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Dec 6, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Second best route on the wall! Bring a few green BD C4s for the middle section. I give it a 5.10+ rating because of the middle section.
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
Apr 25, 2017

Great climb must do if you're in the area. Seems to eat up .5 or orange Metolius. My buddy placed about 5 of these size and was happy to have them. That being said, 3 could do, so long as your comfortable with body length placements in the crux and you don't place one down low.
By Thomas G.
From: SLC, Utah
Jul 10, 2017

Fun route, I just wish the crux section was longer. No need to bring 5 .5's IMO - I was comfortable with doubles in .5 and triples in .75.

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