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Checkered Demon
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Checkered Demon T 
Kindergarten Gully T 

Checkered Demon 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b AI3

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b AI3 Steep Snow [details]
FA: John Fischer and Doug Robinson - October 1970
Page Views: 767
Submitted By: Preston Rhea on Dec 27, 2013

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Checkered Demon on the right, Kindergarten Gully o...

Description 

Checkered Demon is one of the infamous Sierra ice climbs, much akin to Ice Nine in the fact everyone has heard about it and not many people know where it even is, let alone have climbed it. It is a quality climb that is rarely in good ice climbing shape.

The route starts with a couple pitches of 45 degree snow/ice as the couloir steadily narrows and steepens. Near the top of the couloir, the couloir narrows down to three feet and steepens to about 55 degrees. From the start of narrows, a pitch or two of mixed climbing (5.6) leads to the top.

Location 

A super obvious and beautiful arete separates two couloirs. The couloir to the right is Checkered Demon.

Despite the looks, apparently this couloir has been skied, so early season that could be an option for the brave. Another early season option is to ski or downclimb Kindergarten Gully. Otherwise, take the sandy slopes south of the couloir, contouring around the peak to the east and eventually the northeast back to where you parked.

Protection 

A standard rack of ice screws (or snow pickets in early season) and a small alpine rock rack.


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