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Checkered Demon
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Checkered Demon 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Reid Dowdle 1983
Page Views: 376
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Aug 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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The route follows the LF dihedral after passing so...


This is a great line on the center of the Checkered Demon Cliff. A hard, funky start is protected by a bolt and a fixed pin. After that easier climbing above in a nice stemming dihedral to a two bolt and chain anchor near the top of the cliff.


This is the main center dihedral on the Checkered Demon Crag. The start is marked by a bolt and a fixed pin a little above the bolt.


A set of cams.

Photos of Checkered Demon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Calvin sticks the crux move on Checkered Demon.
Calvin sticks the crux move on Checkered Demon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of the Checkered Demon.
Nearing the top of the Checkered Demon.

Comments on Checkered Demon Add Comment
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By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 14, 2008
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Does anyone know if a hold broke off the start of this one? It felt harder than the start of Crack of Doom (5.11c) to me. The 5.10 crack above is very enjoyable, even if you need to pull on gear to get to the start of it.
By Ben Folsom
Jul 1, 2008

Yeah, I thought the start was pretty hard too. I think it has always been that way though.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 7, 2012
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

A big hold that was present in the late 1980s near the start is now missing making the start very hard - much harder now than 20 years ago.
By dave bingham
Oct 5, 2012

..pretty sure CD is the same as always - except some joker trundled the natural cheat stone that made it easier to pull in to the layback. OLD school 11a. The route to the right - "Some Assembly Required" does have missing holds however, and is quite a bit harder now.
By Kurt Howes
Mar 23, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Bring a stick clip and aid off the piton if you can't boulder V4; the fall is safe enough though and the move is over pretty quick. The finish is especially exciting if you break onto the left face earlier than later. Great route!
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Apr 4, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The start is sequential but definitely 11a. Protects well and has a brilliant finish!
By greg t
From: Chevy, Silverado
Jun 20, 2016

Seemed standard city of rocks 11a. On par with Cairo, scar tissue, easier than terror of tiny town. Fun!
By Kyle Goupil
From: SLC, UT
May 7, 2017
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I would agree that this route is harder than 11a. Did Cairo the same day that I lead this and Cairo is a bit easier. Regardless of grade this is a great route and well worth doing! The dihedral above is quality!

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