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Cheater Stone 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Marcus Floyd
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 158
Submitted By: Marcus Floyd on Jan 30, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Jugs to underclings and smears then back to a jug ...

Description 

Cheater Stone is an interesting line that offers a couple different starting options. The slightly easier start begins on top of a large boulder that leans against the bottom of the rock face. Reach high to access the flake layback crack. Feel free to place a small cam for protecting the first few moves below the first bolt. The route continues up and left along a series of underclings and smears. Below the second bolt use the large jug if you wish to clip high. Next is the crux. Use a vertical edge to layback left, to gain the next horizontal edge. Small feet allow you to reach a positive left pinch turns into a great gaston jug to make the clip. Continue up to the two bolt, quick clip, rap anchors.

Location 

Cheater Stone is located on the left end of the crag. This is the last face, or furthest North exposure along the Battress Area exposure. Look for the large leaning boulder and vertical, arrow-shaped flake to find the two start option. 1) Start on the left side of the flake, climbing up using a few large pockets to gain the a couple small cam placements. Continue up and right, on the flake, to access the first bolt. 2) Start on top of the boulder, at the right hand base of the flake, place a small cam and move up and left onto the flake to access the first bolt.

Protection 

Sport route with quick clip rap anchors; a small cam can help protect below the first bolt.


Photos of Cheater Stone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: small cams
BETA PHOTO: small cams
Rock Climbing Photo: Right side start on Cheater Stone
BETA PHOTO: Right side start on Cheater Stone
Rock Climbing Photo: Emily Temple working up her first ascent of Cheate...
Emily Temple working up her first ascent of Cheate...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bryce grabs the crimp at the crux to seal his firs...
Bryce grabs the crimp at the crux to seal his firs...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pic of the flake with pro placed below the first b...
Pic of the flake with pro placed below the first b...

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