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Cheap Hooker 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 1600', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Ogden/Donahue
New Route: Yes
Season: cool temps
Page Views: 332
Submitted By: Jay 1975 on Oct 27, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Sunrise at the bottom of heaven!

2016 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is some of the best rock I've climbed in the canyon (having done 46 routes here)! The first 5 pitches have bullet hard, perfect pewter granite with some "no fall" R sections. Also in the first five are 2 peg R pitches that you CAN'T fall on! The first ascensionists gave this route .12-[5.9X obligitory]! but they are manageable run-outs on "good" peg, if you can believe that.

The crux is actually a short 10' section on the second to last pitch protected by 2 pins.

The only bad pitch is the last as it is just an exit pitch of easy choss and can easily be simul-ed to speed up getting to the beer.

I would recommend this route to any seasoned long route climber who knows they WILL NOT fall on .9+/.10- terrain!

Location 

The route travels up the middle of the buttress. Do the same 300' scramble up to the terrace as for the older Hooker routes.

Protection 

Standard rack with RPs and nuts, extra 0.5-#1s, 16 slings, and a few draws for occasional bolts.


Photos of Cheap Hooker Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Adrian following the p4 R, just as bad to follow!
Adrian following the p4 R, just as bad to follow!
Rock Climbing Photo: Adrian leading another R on p4.
Adrian leading another R on p4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun times.
Fun times.
Rock Climbing Photo: Adrian on p2.
Adrian on p2.
Rock Climbing Photo: The big R/X of p3.
The big R/X of p3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the R of p4.
Following the R of p4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Following p2.
Following p2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on p1.
Me on p1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top.
BETA PHOTO: Top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom.
BETA PHOTO: Bottom.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route.
BETA PHOTO: The route.

Comments on Cheap Hooker Add Comment
Show which comments
By phil broscovak
Dec 6, 2014

This looks outstanding and in the fine tradition of Black Canyon ascents.
If only I were the old me instead of the old me.
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Dec 8, 2014

Phil, you have such a great way with words. Great to hear from you!
Moss
By Chip Chace
Nov 1, 2016

Bravo, Jared and Topher. Way to pick a line. The rock is indeed some of the best in the Black, amazing really. The crunch factor on the pegmatite seemed about average to me, though, so be prepared for a typical peg experience, and you may be pleasantly surprised. The run-outs are real but entirely sane, an excellent of example of well-considered, minimalist bolting. The climbing itself is not terribly physical, making it especially well-suited for unfit geezers still able to move competently on moderately serious Black Canyon terrain. The crux pitch looks a bit contrived from the belay and could definitely use some cleaning. It unfolds as the optimal line, however, and is nevertheless a fun, well-protected climax to a modern Black Canyon classic. We did the final pitch by headlamp and were pleasantly surprised to discover ourselves topping out right on the trail making for a user-friendly experience from bottom to top. Get on this thing.

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