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Cheap Date 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 14,391
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2002

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Unknown climber on Cheap Date.

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This is a great finger crack on par with J-Crack or Loose Ends. It starts left of the Cave and makes a great finish to climbs on the right side of the Book. If linked with Fat City Crack, it makes arguably the best 5.10 climb at Lumpy Ridge. The wall left of the Cave contains several crack lines. Cheap Date is the left-leaning, left fork of a prominent thin system.

Start about twenty feet below the Cave, and climb up and slightly left on engaging, steep flakes and thin cracks to a rest stance at the fork (5.9). This part is just the warm-up, but it's damn fun in its own right. From the stance, take the left branch (crux) with excellent gear is usually placed from poor stances (the right fork is 5.11 and requires multiple RP placements). Belay on a sloping ledge, then scramble off or hand traverse left to the overhanging crack of Outlander, which is 5.10d.


Rack up to a #2 Friend with 2x blue & yellow TCUs; bring a #3 Friend to finish on Outlander.

Photos of Cheap Date Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just layback it! Yes, but then it's hard to get ge...
Just layback it! Yes, but then it's hard to get ge...
Rock Climbing Photo: Good holds abound despite feeling blank at times.
Good holds abound despite feeling blank at times.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cheap Date.
Cheap Date.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the crack....
Looking up at the crack....
Rock Climbing Photo: Following Cheap Date (zoom in…).
Following Cheap Date (zoom in…).
Rock Climbing Photo: Low in the crack.
Low in the crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dean enjoying his Cheap Date....
Dean enjoying his Cheap Date....
Rock Climbing Photo: Done. An easy slab with a crack leads to the belay...
Done. An easy slab with a crack leads to the belay...
Rock Climbing Photo: More laybacking, then the crack becomes vertical. ...
More laybacking, then the crack becomes vertical. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Easier climbing leads to where the crack splits. C...
Easier climbing leads to where the crack splits. C...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck is near the end of the "approach"....
Chuck is near the end of the "approach"....
Rock Climbing Photo: Howard near the crux.
Howard near the crux.

Comments on Cheap Date Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 26, 2016
By Mike Sofranko
Jul 10, 2001

It's no gimme getting to the left leaning crux crack. A couple extra TCUs are nice - double or triple up on the yellow. The crack does widen up in a few spots, but it's mostly awesome finger locks.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 1, 2001

This is one of the best moderate 5.10 finger cracks in the Front Range.
By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Feb 20, 2002

An exceptional crack for has Fingerlocks!!!
By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Jul 29, 2002

Hard climb on lead! Difficult to place good gear since the upper section requires a sort of lay backing technique. The crack in undulating and flaring, hence good placements require a good look, and free hand, good balance, and staying power. This is an excellent test of your ability to manage you head ( small cams keep my attention), gear, and climbing skills . Unfortunately I failed at the upper section but am looking forward to take the test again. An excelent finsh to Fat City for a free climbing masterpiece.
By Joe Collins
Jun 9, 2003

Very cool crack. I would emphasize what people said above about the difficulty of placing gear on lead for this crack. It climbs easier on TR for the LB/ramp walk technique. I would say the more critical cam size is blue TCU or green Alien (bring at least two in this range... 3 would have been nice)... yellow TCUs are too big for the cruxy part. Nuts work OK in a few places, but they are a lot more work to place.
By Mark Ferguson
Jun 14, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

One comment on gear, HB offset nuts work great on this pitch and others at Lumpy. I never climb there without them.
By Anthony Everhart
Jul 3, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I did this w/o any blind placements staying under the crack w/ good locks and toe cams and it didn't seem that hard. I'm sure I was smearing a lot with my left foot but there was also plenty of holds for it. An excellent route to send after getting beat down on Fat City.
By Jim Amidon
Sep 1, 2005

5 stars if I could, one of the best pitches I've ever had the pleasure of on-siting at Lumpy. There are many routes here that get my hackles up but this one was a pleasure to be on, the climbing was so damn superb the gear was a mild afterthought, but I found all of it to be great.I laid the entire thing back in a strong Lumpy breeze and had nothing but a big grin on my face the whole time.No need ever to do the Cave Exit with this gem right there.
By JP.8d
From: Menlo Park, CA
May 14, 2006

Right on Jimbo. This is indeed one a the best on Lumpy. Great climb, great gear, excellent position. Climbs really well. Didn't feel too difficult and if you can keep your balance you can avoid the pump. Good lead for the aspiring .10 leader. 5 stars!
By Rainbowweinstock Weinstock
From: Boulder, CO
May 31, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is my new favorite pitch at Lumpy! Bomber finger locks made it a lot less of an enduro layback than I was expecting. I found there to be reasonable stems to sufficient edges out left from which you can place pro. It definitely helped to just keep moving between these stances versus dinking around with blind placements mid-layback.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Sep 10, 2010

My favorite pitch at Lumpy Ridge. Do Thindependence to J-Crack to Cheap Date to Outlander for one hell of a climb.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 29, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Like many before me have stated, this is the best pitch of climbing I have ever done at Lumpy. Everything about the route is positive... the gear, the fingerlocks, the feet and the exposure. Beautiful liebacking up a clean sweep of granite. Sooooo good.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree that this is a great pitch, but it is not the best I have done at Lumpy. The finger locks are great and so is the gear. Not bad if you are new to 5.10s.
By Vaughn
From: Colorado
Jul 11, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It lives up to the hype. Delicate liebacking in a great position. Bring a few extra finger-size pieces if you are pushing your grade.
By Russ Keane
Sep 26, 2016

So much fun!!! Looks like nothing special from below, but once you get on this pitch, it gets tastier and tastier all the way to the top. Super sweet delicious climbing. Not overly stiff or unfair, just great movement and an unbelievable position on the wall!

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