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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Bob Robertson, Bob D'Antonio, and Larry Kledzik, Fall of 1982.
Page Views: 738
Submitted By: mountainmicah83 on Nov 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Micah at the crux.

  • 2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced MORE INFO >>>
  • 2016 Seasonal Closures lifted MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    After securing your belayer to the second large eyebolt on Tourist Gully, begin the climb up thin, hollow, flaky, Garden-type slab climbing to a small bulge near the second piton. From there, you can progress over the bulge straight through or do a funky right layback. A few more 5.9 moves will get you to the last bolt before a scary runout left traverse to the anchors. Don't be scared.... It's not as bad as it sounds (as long as you don't fall).

    Location 

    Off of the Tourist Gully, this is the first route to the left of Skip It or Clip it, which is the obvious line of pitons every few feet.

    Protection 

    A handful of QDs is all you need for the 6 drilled pins. There is a fixed anchor at the top that is in good shape for Garden standards.


    Photos of Chatters Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce above the crux.
    Bruce above the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Micah on the run to the anchors, finishing my lead...
    Micah on the run to the anchors, finishing my lead...

    Comments on Chatters Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By mountainmicah83
    From: Colorado Springs
    Nov 3, 2010

    If you have a photo or info on the FA, please share.
    By Bosier Parsons
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Nov 3, 2010

    Per the Soft Touch guide, FA by Bob Robertson, Bob D'Antonio, and Larry Kledzik in the Fall of 1982.
    By mountainmicah83
    From: Colorado Springs
    Nov 3, 2010

    Thanks. I updated.
    By Bill Olszewski
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Nov 4, 2010
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

    Micah, you beat me to it! Dammit! Ha ha.

    6 drilled pins. The route traverses up and left from the third pin (just above the bulge).

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