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Chastity Crack 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Bryan Bird and Dave Jones 4/10/2007
Season: All Year
Page Views: 1,260
Submitted By: Danger-Russ Gordon on Mar 11, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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This is the hand crack at the end of pitch 3 looki...

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is an excellent 3 pitch route, that does not see much traffic mostly due to the 60-90 minute approach, if it were on the road side, it would be classic. It is on the north side of the watchman tower feature.

Pitch 1: (5.9) Start in a straight in hand crack 50 feet on the left side of a 50 foot tower to a belay stance. (no bolts top of pitch 1)

Pitch 2: (5.9+) Left facing hand crack to a roof with good face holds, to a short arete and to a bolted belay stance.

Pitch 3: (5.11) starts as splitter straight in fingers on two cracks, then that turns into hands and its a little steeper through the last section, end in a bolted belay.

Descent: Rap the route 2 60M ropes


3-4 each .5-4"
1 5"
2 60M ropes

Photos of Chastity Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2, September 2010. Photo credit Joe Stern
pitch 2, September 2010. Photo credit Joe Stern
Rock Climbing Photo: Britny Andrew following pitch 3, September 2010
Britny Andrew following pitch 3, September 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: 3rd pitch oh so good, September 2010
3rd pitch oh so good, September 2010

Comments on Chastity Crack Add Comment
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By Nate Watkins
From: Cambridge, Ma
May 12, 2014

I didn't think that the approach was as long or as bad as some of the other long approaches in Zion. The best way we found to get to the crack was to go straight back to the buss terminal behind the visitors center. There's a bridge crossing an old river bed. Hop down into the river bed and follow that for about a mile. when the river bed starts to to climb up a bit scramble over the big boulders for about a 50 yards. You should see the climb straight to your right. Then start bush whacking your way up the hill. There's one or two really good animal trails to follow on there.

This climb was way fun and I recommend it for sure. First pitch is good. Second pitch was super fun and enjoyable with good face holds and jams. The third pitch was great fingers and has it's own little spiciness awaiting you.
By Rob Warden...Space Lizard
From: Between Zion, Vegas, LA, and my van
Jul 7, 2015

was out there today 7/7/15 wanting to replace the cord/webbing with steel cable and quicklinks. got rained on at the top of the 2nd pitch. if you climb this please take the other set of cables and links from the 2nd pitch, to the top of the 3rd. thank you

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