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Chasm of Joy T 

Chasm of Joy 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Nicholas Weicht
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 59
Submitted By: Nick Weicht on Dec 2, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Rap in to this approach bench from witch the route...

Description 

This one pitch chimney climb is a trip and hopefully the route will not fall off the mountain like the original trail did a decade ago. This climb was first done solo in running shoes and a hand splint after scrambling up from the glacier with no rope or gear. I would not recommend any of this because that would be f-ing stupid, please learn from my mistakes. Please approach from the top for this fun climb. That being said, the route is a blast and can be protected with gear as you shimmy up a 2' wide by 50' tall crack that is like few others.

Location 

These Routes in the area of the Worthington Ridge Trail. From the Worthington Glacier parking lot follow the trail head signs and trail for about 3/4 miles and 500 vertical feet. One of the reasons for this title is due to the Ridge Trail being the safe approach to routes in the area. DO NOT TRY AND CLIMB UP TO THIS AREA FROM THE GLACIER!!!. A hiker and now friend attempted this and nearly lost his life by slipping off the scree slope and pitching off a 50' face.

Protection 

Small to Medium Gear, Alpine Anchor... get creative.


Photos of Chasm of Joy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the top of the Chasm, It is located in the...
This is the top of the Chasm, It is located in the...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the Chasm viewed from below (do not approa...
This is the Chasm viewed from below (do not approa...
Rock Climbing Photo: This photo is from the base of the route and shoul...
BETA PHOTO: This photo is from the base of the route and shoul...

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