Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Ken + Sharon Roberts
Page Views: 796 total · 9/month
Shared By: kenr on Aug 8, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Variety of moves and rock situations.

Start up the steep gully. Step left to avoid an overhanging section, then back right. Next a gentle section which leads to the bottom of another gully which trends right.
. (Variation: Instead of starting in the gully, start the bottom of the face directly below the bottom of the upper gully).

Get established in the upper gully with a creative combination, then up the gully with positive holds at first, then finish out right on frictiony ramp.

Top-Rope upper variation: To make a line with less side-swing ... instead of finishing on friction ramp to right, exit the upper gully left into a dihedral with crack, climb this up two "steps", but then if the third final "step" (5.8+) is too difficult, just give up and get lowered off.

Descent: No rappel anchor as of 2016 -- so bring slings/cord and rings to construct your own. Or down-climb the route. Or traverse left to two-bolt rappel anchor above the route "di-crack3" (see instructions for Top-Roping access for that route).

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location Suggest change

Left-trending gully with a steep start that faces right. Which is a ways left from a less-steep right-trending gully. About sixty feet right from a set of three corner-cracks.

--> See on this routes Photo <--

Protection Suggest change

Leading trad: Standard rack up to 2 inches.

Top-Roping requires directional placements to protect against side-swing.

No fixed anchor or bolts as of 2016.

Photos

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