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Chasing Sticks 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris Alber, Rick Leitner, 2000
Page Views: 3,630
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Feb 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (149)
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  • Description 

    This is a particularly poorly bolted route on the South Face of Surprising Crag - 3 routes right of Choss Temple Pilots and just right of the dihedral/offwidth. Bolt placement (first bolt 15-20 feet up a slab and a looong reach from a stance, with the second bolt 2 feet above it) makes an othewise good route lame.

    Protection 

    Six draws.


    Photos of Chasing Sticks Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jeremy on Chasing Sticks (5.9).
    Jeremy on Chasing Sticks (5.9).
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jeremy reaches the top of Chasing Sticks.
    Jeremy reaches the top of Chasing Sticks.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The west-facing wall on Surprising Crag. Routes ar...
    BETA PHOTO: The west-facing wall on Surprising Crag. Routes ar...

    Comments on Chasing Sticks Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 14, 2014
    By icsteveoh
    From: salt lake city, UT
    Aug 15, 2007
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Beside the bolts, I thought this climb was pretty fun. Loved the mixed holds and the crack near the chains.
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Oct 26, 2007
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    This is a very fun route, that was poorly bolted.
    By Jeff Welch
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 10, 2008
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    As others have said, the climbing is really fun, but the equipper was on crack.
    By Matt Gates
    From: Pinewood Springs, CO
    Aug 30, 2008
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

    Led this w/ Aliens and med./large stoppers along with clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Makes a good mixed route if you brought your rack.
    By Kevin Cossel
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 23, 2009
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    The distance before the first bolt can be protected with a small to medium stopper. Other than that a good climb with a very fun layback crack near the top.
    By keith story
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 25, 2009

    Fun climb, and a good work out if you work up the second and third bolt as a compression. Also, on the last crack I stemmed off the chimney to the left, which may be off route.

    Loved the runout at the start.
    By Alan Butler
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 12, 2010
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    In my opinion, the first bolt was not too exposed. I would have liked it down several feet, but it did not have me extremely nervous. Just my two cents... otherwise it was a very fun climb.
    By dseltzer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 24, 2011

    A fun route thats unfortunately just horribly bolted.
    By Bawdy B
    From: Denver, CO
    Apr 12, 2014

    It is a little run out to the first bolt, but at least you have some rope in the system by the time you clip it?

    This route can be made more difficult if you jam the left crack (not the dihedral).
    By ChefMattThaner
    From: Lakewood, co
    Apr 13, 2014
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    About a dozen different ways to do this route and all of them fun and exciting. Great warm-up for the area!
    By Simon Perkins
    Sep 14, 2014

    Seemed harder than the supposedly 5.9+ climb to its right. The layback at the top is fairly committing if you go that way, though a slightly easier alternative is to head left and make use of the big crack in the corner.

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