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Chasing Rainbows 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
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Submitted By: Jon Rhoderick on Jul 27, 2017

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Access issues at the Lower Malamute. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A novelty climb, Chasing Rainbows climbs a basalt dike that continues underneath Highway 99 to form the Black Dike all the way up the Chief! After locating the dike, you will have to climb some granite to get there, placing gear along the way. Most of the dike is steep with big holds, with a techy move thrown in there. The angle lessens at the top, and protection opportunities decrease as well, a fall up here would be heinous, but unlikely. When you top out, look for anchors on a slab to the left.

Location 

From HWY 99 footbridge, head North (Right) on several trails in the forest until you reach the slabs on top of the Malamute, you should see a pond near the logging business here. Drop down the slabs in a gully, and then head left around the base. Keep an eye out for the dike, it starts on a steep hillside.

Protection 

Single rack to #3 Camelot, make sure you have a .75 & .5 for the dike portion. Slings!


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By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Aug 14, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Finally got around to ticking this climb off last weekend. It's an interesting climb and worth doing if you are ticking off the top 100s. Different than most Squamish climbs though not a fantastic pitch by any means.

Some useful info for those looking to get on it:

  • Approach and Descent*
Approach isn't too tricky. Park at the pullout across from the chief. On the north side of the parking lot, there is a path going up into the grass. Follow it up and keep trending north until you see the pond/lake. Head down the slabs towards that until you enter the forest then loop around the malamute an head south. Fairly big ledge with trees on it. You'll see the climb "pinky locks". Very distinct 5.7 slanting crack. Chasing rainbows is further along.

Recommended descent is to go back the way you came. Rappel off chasing rainbows and walk out.


  • Recommended Gear*
- One blue C4 and one red C4
- 4 sport draws
- 4 long slings and biners for the bolted anchor (It's a ways back from the ledge)
- Comfort on runouts to the first gear and comfort on runouts to the anchor


  • Beta*

The first bolt is about 10 meters of easy (5.9ish) climbing off the ground. You can get a red and blue C4 in about 7 meters up but if you are confident it probably isn't necessary *just don't fall*

After that is a 8 meter crux section with 4 bolts. Tricky face climbing but treat it like a boulder problem and it isn't too difficult to get through.

After that there is no pro for about 10 meters to the top. The angle eases off so it's pretty easy but again... *Don't fall*. The basalt is slippery so please be careful as a fall would be unpleasant.

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