Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Krottenseer Turm
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chasin the Trane S 
Hitch Hike the Plane  S 
Ira Technokratie  S 
Westwand S 

Chasin the Trane 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: John Bachar 1981
Page Views: 67
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Follow the red train tracks.

Description 

In 1981, the great John Bachar visited Germany to participate in an international climbing festival. During his visit he claimed the first ascent of this open project on the right side of Krottenseer Turm. He graded the route 5.13a, which made it the hardest route in Europe at the time, and one of the hardest in the world. The name is taken from the title of a John Coltrane album, and a not-so-subtle dig at the European climbing scene. According to Güllich’s Biography A Life in the Vertical, Bachar’s ascent was a huge deal in Germany. It made Bachar an instant star, and the route an instant test-piece. The line follows a discontinuous groove with an intermittent crack that leads over several steep bulges. It must have seemed very futuristic for the day, considering its steepness.

The route begins with slabby moves on big jugs to reach a horizontal break below a steep bulge. A few big moves between sinker pockets lead to the lip of the bulge, where a thin seam appears and most of the pockets vanish. Strenuous liebacking and stemming leads up the groove. At the top of the seam, the route traverses right below a roof, and then clears a final bulge before following a long slab to the anchor.

Location 

The second route from the right that begins from the ground. Immediately left of Hitch Hike the Plane.

Protection 

6 bolts to an anchor.


Comments on Chasin the Trane Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 20, 2014

An old-school grade for an old-school route. This would easily merit .13a at any modern day vacation crag.