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Chasin' the Lizard 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 2,862
Submitted By: sqwirll on Feb 22, 2009

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Chasin' the Lizard

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


This pitch has it all from hands,fingers,stemming, and offwidth. It deserves to see more traffic. The route starts out in the right hand of two crack systems. Hand jams lead up to the left facing corner. Continue up the corner (fingers) to the stem box above. Continue stemming and grunting up the wide crack and chimney to the shared anchor (2nd pitch of Avenging the Goddess Kring). 2 single 60m raps or one double rap with get you back to the ground.


Start 50' to the left of Rattletale.


Standard rack with gear to 4"-5".

Photos of Chasin' the Lizard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chasing the Lizard
BETA PHOTO: Chasing the Lizard
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the stembox section of Chasin' the Li...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the stembox section of Chasin' the Li...
Rock Climbing Photo: Quality crack climbing on Chasin' the Lizard.
BETA PHOTO: Quality crack climbing on Chasin' the Lizard.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chasin' the Lizard goes up right the right crack s...
BETA PHOTO: Chasin' the Lizard goes up right the right crack s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber at the top of the first pitch of Avenging ...
BETA PHOTO: Climber at the top of the first pitch of Avenging ...

Comments on Chasin' the Lizard Add Comment
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By Mark Straub
From: Berkeley, CA
Jun 5, 2011

Isn't this Avenging the Goddess Kring?
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
May 17, 2012

Really fun route. Gear up to a #4 Camalot. #5 optional. Anchor just above the ledge. The second rap station is in need of replacement. One of the bolts is completely rusted through.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Jun 8, 2012

@Mark - I think this variation is Chasing the Lizard. I don't have it with me but I believe that's what it says in Sky Valley Rock. The comment in the pic seems to verify it.
By Daniel Coltrane
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 21, 2014

Avenging the Goddess Kring starts in the left hand crack system through two bolts, kinda mossy as of this comment post, and climbs up through the chimney and heads out left past a bolt (10a) to a two bolt anchor at just about 30m. From here one climbs up and left through a right facing corner, can be wet and vinery, past two bolts (5.9) to meet up with the top of Chasin' the Lizard. Both pitches are fun and worth three stars. The climb is rated at 12a in the guide book, but that is only for the last pitch to the top.
By Ashort
From: Tacoma, WA
Jun 1, 2015

This route is really fun and deserves to see more traffic. If you are in the area for Rattletale you might as well climb this one too.

I used a #4 down low on the route, there are other options for gear up higher where the crack on the left opens up. Great stem/chimney rests allow you to take time to place some small cams or nuts in the right crack instead of just slamming in a #5 in the wide left crack.
By Mark Straub
From: Berkeley, CA
Jul 18, 2015

Update on conditions. Chasin' the Lizard (right crack, continues through the chimney) is clean right now and a fantastic climb. I brought a double rack of cams to #3, a 4 or 5 could easily be placed but are not necessary. Nuts are helpful. You can get down in 1 rappel with a single 80m rope. This is a fantastic climb, one of my favorite moderates at Index.

Avenging the Goddess Kring (left crack start) is currently very mossy. 5 years ago, I believe that Chasin' the Lizard was dirty and Goddess Kring was clean, which seems to have switched around. Both are worthwhile if clean.
By mark webster
From: Gig Harbor
Aug 28, 2015

August 28, 2015
We did this route yesterday. It was super fun, and little easier than Rattletale. It's a tiny bit dirty, but only because it doesn't get as much traffic as Rattletale. It's very long. We had a sixty meter rope and not much was left on the ground when my partner got to the anchors. The climbing is widely varied, from snarky little finger jams to double hand stacks. We were glad to have 2 fours, a five and a purple big bro.

We thought the hardest move was where the double crack changes to a number five placement on the left, and a pinched off crack on the right. So the move is a heel toe jam on the left, a marginal right foot jam in a flare on the right, with a double hand stack on the left. I can't wait to get back and lead it myself.

It's two raps with a sixty. The anchor bolts are not inspiring, but normal for 20 years ago. They would benefit from an upgrade.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 26, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Gave this route a scrub on Wednesday Feb. 24, 2016. ran out of time, still dirty, but better then it was.
Exactly 40m pitch.
Much variety, no moves harder then 5.9.
2 crux moves are OW, 1st transition from OW to tight hands near start.
2nd crux (described above) is mid way up as left hand OW goes to #5 size right side crack is flaring jam.
I feel comfortable leading this with a single #4, but you have to save it for the middle of route and slide it up some. #5 optional.
We have rapped this with a single 70 meter rope to top of boulder, down climb.
By Laurel Fan
Mar 22, 2016

Thanks for the cleaning! I would not describe it as dirty now. It's cleaner than the first pitch of Rattletale (and possibly easier and better than Rattletale?)

Don't get scared off by the offwidthness if you don't have a lot of big cams or big bros. I didn't bring anything bigger than a 4, and a 3 would have worked near where I dumped it at the bottom of the route.
By TaylorLutz
From: Seattle
Jun 23, 2017

really good route. long, sustained and varied

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