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Charon's Gardens

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Charon's Gardens Rock Climbing 

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Location: 34.7235, -98.74518 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 77,842
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: J C Wilks on May 8, 2009


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BETA PHOTO: The south side of the gardens. I tried to highligh...

  • This area is designated as Charon MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The topography of Charon's Gardens can be a complex maze with small outcrops which can obscure features that are relatively near. There are good to fair trails leading to the major destinations. These areas include Tiny Bubbles, Pear & Apple, Treasure Cove, Elk Slabs and Crab Eyes, but even then, once you are close there can be a bit of route finding to get to the base of the actual climbs.

    There are several areas with no maintained trail leading to them. Pick up a USGS map, a condensed version of the Refuge from the Visitor Center or print out a satellite image to aid you in finding these places on and around Mt. Lincoln, West Horizon Pass, Sunset Peak/Big Whiskey and other more obscure crags. The advantage of these areas is that you will avoid the crowds at the Narrows and Mt Scott.

    The original 1980 book by Duane Raleigh and Bill Thomas 'Southern Exposure - A Climber's Guide to Oklahoma' simply states: "CHARON'S GARDENS - To the west of Elk Mt. is a rugged wilderness area known as Charons Gardens. Throughout this area there are many excellent one pitch and shorter crack climbs. These can be difficult to locate and no listing of the specific routes will be given.

    Climbing is year 'round but you will want to avoid the roasting south facing cliffs in summer and the shady north facing cliffs in winter. Encounters with wildlife can be sudden. Watch out especially for rattle snakes, elk and rogue bison bulls.

    There is a designated camping section within Charon's Gardens. You must backpack in a couple of miles and the camping is primitive. Check at the Visitor Center for permits.

    Getting There 

    Residing on the far southwestern end of the Refuge, there are two main parking lots for this large area and a few pull-outs in between. Drive west on 49 to the north, Sunset Pool Parking which provides access to most of the major climbing areas. Off of the Indiahoma Rd is the south parking lot at Treasure Lake. This is the best point to start in to areas such as Panther Canyon, West Horizon Pass and Mt Lincoln. It's also a good way in to Elk Slabs. This lot has had high incidences of break-ins from time to time so keep your valuables with you or hidden if you must leave them in the vehicle.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 1.7 miles from here

    243 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',21],['3 Stars',77],['2 Stars',75],['1 Star',32],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Charon's Gardens

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Charon's Gardens:
    The Oklahoma Panhandler   V6 7A     Boulder, 1718'   Crab Eyes : Crab Eyes Bouldering
    Great Expectations   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch   Elk Slabs
    The (Other) Dihedral   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Elk Slabs
    Water Streak   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Elk Slabs
    Nike Rout   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   Elk Slabs
    Little Sherman Creature Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Echo Dome
    Worm Hole   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Echo Dome
    For A Rocker   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Lost Dome
    Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly)   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   Lost Dome
    Frosted Flakes   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 70'   Echo Dome
    Ladybugs and Gentlemen   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport   Echo Dome
    Come and Get Your Love   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Lost Dome
    Crack a Lo Lo   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Lost Dome
    Power Series   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Crab Eyes : East Face
    Slime of the Century   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Lost Dome
    Ra   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Crab Eyes : East Face
    Lost My Religion   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   Lost Dome
    Rap Bolters from Hell   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Lost Dome
    Moby Dick   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Crab Eyes : West Face
    Tied to the Whipping Post   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Lost Dome
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Charon's Gardens

    Featured Route For Charon's Gardens
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rhyan Brown trying some toe hook beta on the probl...

    The Angry Inch V10 7C+  Oklahoma : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : ... : Lost Dome Bouldering
    Starts on a double sloping crimp with an okay left foot. Throw to a left hand sloping crimp. Then bump right hand to a pinch, then to a better crimp. Reach around to an okay left hand sidepull and then throw to the jug for the top out. A very short, but burly problem....[more]   Browse More Classics in Oklahoma

    Photos of Charon's Gardens Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jimmy Ray Forester climibng on Rap Bolters from He...
    Jimmy Ray Forester climibng on Rap Bolters from He...
    Rock Climbing Photo: the hike through charons gadens
    the hike through charons gadens
    Rock Climbing Photo: charon's gardens
    charon's gardens
    Rock Climbing Photo: Buffalo Posing
    Buffalo Posing
    Rock Climbing Photo: Charon's gardens area with trails and north parkin...
    BETA PHOTO: Charon's gardens area with trails and north parkin...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Golden hour in the Gardens. Beautiful area. WWR, O...
    Golden hour in the Gardens. Beautiful area. WWR, O...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Charon's Gardens! Taken from Elk slabs on a beauti...
    Charon's Gardens! Taken from Elk slabs on a beauti...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Charons Garden Wilderness Area Sunset.  Photo: Rya...
    Charons Garden Wilderness Area Sunset. Photo: Rya...
    Rock Climbing Photo: So much rock in CG that at first it's hard to figu...
    So much rock in CG that at first it's hard to figu...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Verizon air card gets you on the internet from cer...
    BETA PHOTO: Verizon air card gets you on the internet from cer...

    Comments on Charon's Gardens Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Cfresh
    From: Barrington il
    Sep 29, 2015
    Hey guys goin to be coming out do do some backcountry camping and mainly bouldering I'm really excited to head this way but I'm curious r there any sections that still need devolving as for bouldering? I love setting new routes lmk I'm gonna definitely be on the hunt and made my self a pretty cool handwritten guide book of all the info that's on here but as always I'm sure there are more climbs to be found
    By Preston Pettigrew
    From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
    Feb 11, 2016
    I found two old bolted lines on the south face of Bat Cave Mountain, just east of the bat cave itself, that look pretty old, one of the anchor bolts was a very rusted rivet style bolt. Does anybody have any info on these climbs?
    By Henry Holub
    From: Altus, Ok
    Jun 5, 2016
    Here you go Preston- there's a couple of paragraphs about Bat Cave Mountain in this early guide book. It doesn't name any of the routes, but it might be helpful.

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