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> Conroy's Castle
Charlotte's Web
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.4 from 86
votes
Routes in Conroy's Castle
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1-900-LUV-KUSH S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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A Child’s Christmas in Wales S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Asian Princess Needs Dead Bird S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Asian Princess Wants Dead Bird S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Asian's Gumby Superhighway S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bangers and Mash S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brown & Veiny S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bullet the Blue Car S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Charlotte's Web S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Clear Cut S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Emil and the Detectives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flying Classroom, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Great Yellow Hope, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I Love You 3000 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Incontinence hotline, please hold... S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Instant Classic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kingfishers Catch Fire S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Perfect Flush, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shaggy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Small is Beautiful S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Kevin McLane, Roger Chayer, May 1994 |
| Page Views: | 29,896 total · 145/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Spindloe on May 13, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Description
A popular climb, but not only because it's one of the easier climbs in the area. The first pitch (5.9) is a little less than vertical and requires careful sequence planning making it an enjoyable puzzle. The second pitch (5.7) is a lower angle affair with great holds.
Location
Conroy's Castle is really the southern end of the Forgotten Wall, so walking south along the base of the Forgotten Wall, you've arrived at Conroy's Castle when the climbing ceases to look like 5.11 or 5.12, and the cliff is curving around to face south. Charlotte's Web is left of the climb Clear Cut which is distinguished by having a fun-looking roof about 10m up.
Protection
8 or 9 quickdraws if doing it in two pitches, about 15 to link the pitches (which I would recommend). Bolted first and second pitch anchors. From the top of the second pitch double ropes would be required to rappel all the way to the ground, so use the first belay station as an intermediate rappel if on one rope.
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