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04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buffy T 
Bugaboo T 
Charlotte's Crack T 
Clamdigger Crack T 
Continental Cracks T 
Desperado T,S 
Equinox T 
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START) T 
Good Omens T 
Harmonic Convergence T 
Heathrow - Ice Climb 
Hotel California T 
Joe's Route - Ice Climb 
Obscure Object of Desire S 
Old Spice T 
Old Stud S 
Pandora T,S 
Poison Ivy T 
Queen Charlotte T 
Slow Children (mid-cliff START)  T 
Spider (mid-cliff START) T 
Tangled Up in Blue (mid-cliff START) T 
Tritium Witch (mid-cliff START) T 
Web (mid-cliff START), The T 
White Streak T 
Witchy Woman (mid-cliff START) T 

Charlotte's Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 2,807
Submitted By: roddack on Jul 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: The 2nd pitch.


Find the thin seem that heads to a ledge with a tree 40 feet up from the base. Traverse left up thin holds and pro, or follow the crack to the big ledge (broadway). From anchors walk left to the start of a big crack, go to the top.


Starts near the right high ledge(sidewalk ledge) at center of cliff. It's just right of an old dead hollow tree.


Camden trad rack, nothing too big, and a few small pieces might be helpful.

Photos of Charlotte's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top of pitch 1, Charlotte's Crack.  ...
BETA PHOTO: View from the top of pitch 1, Charlotte's Crack. ...

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By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
May 22, 2012

Big Wasp Nest Right in the middle of pitch 2
By nate3265
Sep 1, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climb was great, i did not see the wasp nest on pitch 2, but i may just have not got there attention.
By SamFelch
Nov 13, 2012

Is it possible to do a double rap with a 60 meter?
By Jonathan Steitzer
From: West Lebanon, NH
Sep 1, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Yeah, there are rap stations on the cliff for rappelling with a 60 meter, the upper one is about 15' climber's right of the top out of the whole climb.
By DubDub
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 11, 2016

What's the name & rating of the route under the 3 bolt rap station to the right? Nice TR.

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