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Charlie's Chimney 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Charles Erwin
Page Views: 1,121
Submitted By: ferrells on Dec 28, 2009  with updates from Kevin Erwin

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


A potentially hair-raising 6 inch crack that is formed by the right side of the Combination Blocks leaning against the wall.
If my memory serves me, Watts says, 'Boldly layback the start'. Without 6 inch cams or big bros, this would be Bold indeed. I only had one 6 inch cam with me, and it was not easy to place in the crack that turned out to be mostly a little bigger than 6 inches. The crux is at about thirty feet, just before you pull over the lip halfway, so if you only have one, bring that baby with you to protect the crux. I ended up soloing that section, laybacking and smearing on birdshit, with my 6 inch cam 15 feet below me. The upper squeeze section is fun, clean, and a different flavor than most of Smith.
If you have the big cams, and know how to use them, this is a cool route.


Right side of Combination Blocks.


Hand sized to 6 inch cams.

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By another Chad
Oct 24, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

To reinforce what is said above, yes, save that #6 (or 9" Valley Giant) for the end of the laybacking section. All the laybacking is mellow though there is an insecure move right at the top of the flake. Between the flake and the start of the chimney there's a pocket on the face that takes a #1 camalot perfectly. Above that a #4 can be placed at the bottom edge of the chimney. If you like tight chimneys and can overlook some bird shit you might enjoy the climb.


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